Hunting's of England had a couple of good
lubricant sprays for loosening rusted parts
and freeing locks, they were called Ezy-Open
or something, and are better than the usual
WD40 or RP7.

Possibly you could try those.

This was taken from an old tune-up manual
and also a Reader's Digest car car manual
which I bought during the 80's.


Vacuum Readings1

Vacuum Readings2

Reader's Digest

Do any of those Permatex or so-calld RTV gasket
sealants need to be used when mounting a carburetor
on its pad on the intake manifold ?

My usual mechanic says no, the pad is a kind of fiber
material and is not supposed to have any sealant coated
on it. He said the pad will flex itself in place when the
nuts are tightened.

However, I think my carb might be leaking vacuum along
its mount. The engine idles normally when cold, but
goes very rough when it heats up. It doesn't appear to
be vapour lock.

Wow, didn't know it was this dangerous
with loose tie rod ends.

I'll get them replaced soon as I can, plus
as many components of the steering as
possible.

Thanks, everyone.

My steering has been making some "clunking"
sounds for some time, especially when going over
rougher roads and humps, and one can "feel"
the clunk a little at the steering wheel too.

I was told about a year or two ago that the inner tie
rods, which the mechanics here call "drumsticks"
or "steering ballhead" in their jargon, were
somewhat loose, but it was minor and need not be
be replaced.

Well, it has been getting louder these few days,
and I wonder if there is a risk of the tie rod
snapping and the wheel flying off ?

The ball joints had been inspected too at the same
time as the tie rods a year ago, and they looked
alright then, though had never been replaced since
I bought the car 11 years ago.

Thanks.

Your distributor sounds like a stock unit
which came with the car. The ignitor is usually
built inside the distributor.

If so, it is probably the capacitive discharge type,
and will need an "electronic" type coil suited to
electronic ignition systems.

In Malaysia, you can usually buy this at spare parts
shops, under the "Diamond" brand. I think it is
used without a ballast resistor.

The third gear occasionally jumps out and
downwards to neutral when my hand is resting
on the gear knob and exerts a bit of pressure
in the midst of driving.

Could this be weak detent springs or something ?

Or could it be due to using too light a gear oil -
I'm using SAE 85W-90. Maybe I should change
back to standard SAE 90.

Here are a few "transitorized" ignition kits for those
who might like to add them to older distributors
with contact points.

The advantage of these types are that they can be
triggered by the points. With proper jumper male-female
connectors, one can revert back to points easily should
the unit fail.

With the more common electronic type which have the
reluctor and electronic unit built into the distributor,
one would be left stranded should the unit fail, unless
one knows how to install back the old points distributor
properly.

Though the points last much longer, it's still advisable
to change them once a year or so, as the fiber rubbing
block will wear down.


http://www.quasarelectronics.com/1058.htm


http://estore.fox-international.com/productdetail.asp?id=13337

http://www.gibsonteched.net/vk2543.html

http://www.marksvwcollectibles.co.uk/Ignition.htm


Box for the above K2543 unit.

http://www.gibsonteched.com/vg304.html


The "high energy ignition" kit from Dick Smith Electronics
of Australia does not seem to be available anymore. Jaycar
appears to be having it soon, but at a far higher price.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?URL=index&ID=KC5419&CATID=25&SUBCATID=347

Hey Cookie Malaysia, thanks for your help and info.

I work in Kuala Lumpur, but stay in Petaling Jaya too.
My handphone is 019-248 1387 if you would like to
reach me.

Wow, I better get the chain replaced soon as I can.
The rattling sound may well be due to the somewhat
loose chain hitting the cover as it rotates. I wonder
if it has eroded the inside of the cover already. I was
warned if the tensioner gives way, the chain might
fly off and punch a hole through the cover ! Sorry to
hear about your engine, was that what happened ?

I had bought a dual chain, plus tensioner, the two
sprockets, L-plate and gaskets for the timing cover
and oil sump some time ago. I note from Mildman's
website there's an oil seal in the timing cover too, so
will go get that as well.

Thanks for the help too, Tom210 and Mildman.

Thanks again, Phunkdoktaspot, Steven and
Dats-Hot, for the help.

Sorry to have to bother you people for help again,
but there is no similar Toyota KE70 website with
a good and very active forum like yours around,
apart from a couple in Yahoo which aren't very
good.

I'll go get the whole works - chain, tensioner,
sprockets and L-plate changed soon as I can. You
young guys are really good to do it yourselves - no
car owner in Malaysia knows how to do it
themselves. Has to be done by the mechanics, and
even they will take virtually the whole day to finish
it, replacing a timing chain is a really major job,
unlike a timing belt.

The cylinder head gasket and valve seals and guides
were changed a few months ago with a gasket set, and
the valves decarbonized. The tappets are making some
noise now, but the rattling is definitely the timing chain
- gets louder when the aircon compressor cuts in. It's
been rattling for years actually. It's even noiser if I use
a lighter oil such as SAE 30 or the 15W-40 which I am
using now. I'll have to switch back to 20W-50.

By the way, I think the earlier problem in my first post
about the engine idling roughly and stalling in hot
weather, might well have been vapor lock. I've wrapped
the fuel lines running to and from the fuel pump in
aluminium. If that still doesn't work, I might have to
change over to an electric pump.