Interesting. Here in the US you have a learner permit for 6 months. Only drive with a licensed observer above 21 years of age (in most jurisdictions) and once you have the license you can have whatever daddy will buy you (I think there are a few jurisdictions that have some form of graduated system, but not many). Not uncommon to go to a High School and see Vipers, Corvettes and Hummers in the parking lot (car park). Not saying either is right or wrong, just interesting the differences.

What is the accident rate among 16 year olds in Australia?

What does a "P" plate signify?

You might think about the curved intake runner stacks, something like inside the airbox of an M5 V-8 BMW. the radius of the curve would probably allow you to build a filer housing that would enclose them and then you would get the benefit of having a pretty long intake tract, if that is what you are after.

Interesting that when you buy the chrome skull with the ruby eyes there is nothing mentioned in the packaging about having to put your shift pattern anywhere. You would think with as litigious as the US is they would provide a sticker with every know shift pattern in the package.

Good point on the synchronization. I just figured that would look pretty cool and since you mention clearance might even address that. I don't know of anyone ever trying to mount a "downdraft" style throttle body horizontally but it seems like it should work.

So, here is a crazy idea, since you mention that you are better at software solutions than hardware solutions. Use the SU manifold, get two of the 4 Hayabusa throttle bodies (43mm each), have one of your "hardware" savvy friends help you make an adapter for them to mount to the SU manifold, plug the injector bosses on each throttle body and operate the throttle butterfly. Machine the inlet runners for injectors and get a couple of feet of this; http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant. ... FUL-010&Category_Code=FUL and you should be able to tune up the fuel injection and make some good gains.

I feel your pain in the 5 mph faster through the corners club. Although it has been a number of years since I ran the car I was always having to try to time my run through the corner to not run into the people ahead of me.

As long as we're talking about that, though, the unsprung weight savings of the hubs and the Wilwood brakes might help pick up another mile or so in the corners and help you down the straight.

240 Z springs are not surprisingly stiff. That is what I used on my 1200 track car (about 1/2 of each one) to lower it and it wasn't too stiff. Using them full length or close to it would offer pretty good ride quality and more suspension travel. I would think that using a custom lower control arm would be necessary as raising the car too much without a longer lower arm would compromise camber, etc.

The red 1200 body on the Suzuki Samurai chassis is a neat idea but it really isn't a 1200 then.

Try to message member pjz and see if he can help you. Has the molds for the fenders that are used on the 1200 in the US for racing. (The ones that look way better than the ones I made in my avi)

While it is true that you can bolt any "A"-Series head onto an A12 block (I bolted an A14 head onto A12 block on my race car) the thing to watch out for is the combustion chamber size. At least in the US the chamber is smaller on the A12 head. The "open" nature of the chamber on the A14 head dropped the compression ratio quite a bit and reduced the performance a bit.