http://kuvablogi.com/nayta/1012076/
here..

my opinion, drill new holes on the control arm as i did in my B310. i heard that B14 and N15 Sentra/Pulsar front strut is same with S13, but the damper rate is more appropriate than S13 as Sentra is lighter.

Pink color is quite common to those drift machine like 180SX, KE70.....

other links:
http://www.drift.com.my/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21368
http://www.drift.com.my/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21340
http://www.drift.com.my/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21308
http://www.drift.com.my/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21310
http://www.drift.com.my/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21309

I am wondering why nobody use ute to drift in this time? here is a good example of 1200 ute drift in Malaysia.

The car is powered by 4AGZE, other details i have no idea, sorry about that.

if u really want to buy cheap stuff with acceptable quality, go for Taiwan made products. as they are still treat 1200 as collectors' car but not as China "poor people's car".

me too from malaysia.

Sorry i was not free to edit it, thx for reminding me

i only have these pics:

if u dont mind, i would just copy n paste from my another website in Malaysia... this is the process i mod it:

what you need to prepare:
1. suspension: coilovers is the easiest. recommended spring rate is below 5k, which is very hard to find. if you want to stick back original S13 absorber, then you need to shorten it, and weld new lower spring bracket. the effect i dont know. but since you want to improve performance, why dont you use coilover?

2. S13 knuckle assembly, including disc brake.

3. S13 brake hose

4. S13 lower arm. the castor rod mounting have to custom drill. now i am wondering if reverse install left arm into right and right into left will get more castor or not?

5. bushings for lower arms. it is special size, can try to find in motor shop. but it is better to drill the crossmember then can use ori S13 bolts.

6. if use reverse lower arm, you probably need to custom engineer your castor rod, make it adjustable.

7. tie rod ends using S13 outer ball joint and 120Y inner ball joint. then the steel rod you can find those longer one in spare part shop, about 2cm longer. but the inner tie rods ends both left and right side must right side ball joint, means you have to buy two right side, because the S13 ones are no difference between left and right, but 120y left right different thread direction, one clockwise one counterclockwise. then you use right side can fit the S13 ones.

8. you have to find suitable rims as some cant clear the caliper. the spoke design is very important. and dont get too small offset rims, you need to do wheel arch, means more money. +10 and above should be ok, depends on your rim width.



Notice:
1. find those professional people measure the castor rod hole for you, then drill.
2. with adjustable, better go spot weld. my castor rod mounting has been torn off.
3. prepare all things before doing it, or else you will be like me suffering huh.gif
4. better ensure your servo is compatible with the caliper or not.

Pros:
1.with camber, stiffer suspension, your cornering will be damn nice, like the car want to turn, helping you to turn, but not you pull the steering hard hard to maintain the angle. the car characteristic change totally.
2. bigger disc brake. it stops steadily, gradually, when you want super braking power, it provide. when you want to stop comfortably, it also provide.
3. needless to say, with camber and super lowering, sure will get a lot of attention.
4. the settings itself give about 3-4cm offset one side, so no need spacer or low offset rims.

Cons:
1. the steering will become harder with camber, but just for low speed and parking.
2. i can feel bump steer.
3. the parts is more expensive when you want to repair.
4. less daily usability and comfort.
5. may spoil the chassis.
6. the tyre will hit the fender if the rims offset is not right.



erm...sorry for my poor english, hope u can understand.

i would suggest you to swap to S13 setup, its parts are easy to source, and quite easy to DIY.

Thanks a lot, ddgonzal.