crap put it in the classifieds, can the mod move it to general discussion please? sorry wasnt thinking
ok i go a sr20de in a 1200 ute on custom mounts etc...
im trying to get the box and motor out whether it
be in 1 piece or 2 or 3 or 4 and so on, basically i
have removed all wiring and hoses and
radiator,tailshaft, all steering linkage and all the front end is off the crossmember so its free standing so i can drop the crossmember.

all in hope to get the box and motor out in one
then looks i cant coz of clearance, i cant drop the
motor and box as one, coz the manifolds will hit
( take off inlet manidold and exhaust then and try n drop it?)

cant drop it front crank pulley hits the radiator
support ( can i cut that out a lil only need 15mm of
clearance and weld a new removable bit bak ?)
or take off crank pulley ( how u do that?)
cant get to starter motor without taking the inlet
manifold off( more friggen work) ?


Cant drop in one piece motor to wide ( manifolds
hit and crank pulley)

cant push forward crank pulley hits radiator
support)

cant lift up with box still on, head hits firewall

ne1 u no taken a sr out of a 1200?
ne other methods of removal, i dont care how it
gets out just need the box and motor out, dont
care in how many pieces ( intact tho no explosives
haha)


pic1
YELLOW is the pully hitting the radiator support
RED is what im thinking about cutting out :P and
putting a removable plate in there bolted onto the
support.



pic2
RED: intake manifold and ( plenum i think its called)
YELLOW: the rough line of the chassis rails, nething
to the left need to not be there for the motor to
drop
GREEN: rough location of starter motor under the intake




pic3
YELLOW: where i took the suspenson thing off to
free it from the crossmember, and also removed all
steering linkage




pic4
just a pic to show how LITTLE room between back
of motor and firewall, its about an inch :P



pic5
pic of gearbox crossmember
YELLOW, location of bolts holding it to the floor( is
this a good location for it to be fitted? i heard of
ca18det's needing to connect to chassis rails?

that didnt make much sense but why cant you disconnect the gearbox and lift the motor through the top, if thats how you were trying to do it and the crank pulley is hitting could you try and tilt the top of the motor forward to bring the bottom closer to the firewall so maybe it could clear
NOTE: the motor is already in and the radiator support is not cut, this means it went in so it will come out

if u look at the clearance behind the head u'll see i cant get a spanner down there let alone see the top bolts on the bellhousing to disconnect the box, and to take the box off i need the starter off? which means the intake/plenum off, so y not drop it then? and take off the crank pulley?

you get a rattle gun and a puller kit and pull the crank pulley off. I think that would probably be easiest?

i can get hold of a puller
but rattle gun? u cant get to the pulley head on, there is a metal thing goin down infront of it like infront of the radiator..
can u get rattle bits on 90degree bends?
2mos ill take the mounts and crossmembers all off
And attempt to drop it turning it over pushing bak and forwrd etc.. ill try everything everyone has mentioned on all the forums..
worst case manifolds off starter off crank pulley off drop, all still do-able
ne other idea's fella's?
cheers nick

if i were you i would undo all mounts and gearbox crossmember...

move the motor and box as a unit as far foreward as you can in the bay..

this way you'll be able to get to the bellhousing bolts...

drop gearbox out from underneath..

then lift motor straight up out of the bay..

done

You need to machine off the front pulley. On the CA this is possible. I cannot guarantee that the SR front pulley will also be able to support the loss of one pulley.

Have you looked at the wreckers, maybe there's a non-powersteer or non-A/C optioned Silvia that has a shorter sr20 front pulley.

With the gearbox mount disconnected from the body, engine weight supported on a block and tackle, and crossmember unbolted, you should be able to get to the crank bolt.

A 2 or 3 arm puller is the go, make the job easy.

If you don't make it serviceable, you'll regret it. That's the key ingredient to a longlife transplant. Otherwise the rejection drugs won't work, and you'll go buy a hyundai.

Don't be cutting the front chassis rail, that will make it defectable, If I were a cop, and I saw that cut, you'd get a red canary..(tow truck defect).

ANGE:
i still need the starter motor off to drop the box dont i? or can it be dunwith it still attached?

had to take off the intake and plenum ( not to bad just a lil awkward) and started and all went well
basically got it on a huge huge angle ( not like in pic just to show u how i did it)
and managed to get to the bolts on the bellhousing then and dropped the box twisted the motor around a lil and got it out, so so nearly cut the front suports out ay so very close...
took the heater out to puttin the electric one in :P

thanx for the idea's and advice fella's
cheers, nick

ahh good stuff you got it out..

have fun puttin it back in