i think a 3 core 1200 radiator would probably work as good, if not better than an n14. factory n14 rad's dont hold much water
at all. i used an aftermarket (thicker) n14 core in my rotary 1200 and it worked great.

edp that engine bay is sexy

its got a pissy little 10" on there now, have seen bigger fans in hard drives in nerd computers, will throw a 14" on when i get back from work trip, hoses were also a bit crunchy, ill flush the bastard and fit a new thermostat.
If no dice ill weigh up running an alloy A series rad or the N15, that orange bay is nice mate, well done! any more details on the air con setup?

I run a single 10 inch on the front, no real issue with my L in traffic except it's still on a manual switch so I have to watch the gauge.

Was an issue with thinner h150 on lseries but not, on a really.

Only issue I had was airflow and I got core rodded and found was 70% blocked. Maybe your rad needs a flush. What Side is your bottom hose on? Still don't think it's a 1600 radiator unless bottom hose has been modded on the bottom tank. L series is on the drives side. A on the passengers side.

My fan's a 12" slim line and fits tight between engine and radiator. I've got a 75 deg thermo switch on the outlet of my rad (fixed to an aluminium insert). The fan's hot wired and earthed through the switch (NO, normall open). Works fine.

I run this in my sunny works a treat with sunny bottom hose and corolla top hose

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1106351629 ... 1436.l2649#ht_3102wt_1399

make sure you run the stone tray and make sure you buy the 1.6 radiator as it has the smaller hose fittings

oh and flush your block before fitting new radiator other wise you just ruin the new core

Big V - This one should be better for an extra 4 bucks!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminium- ... ories&hash=item1c2d23d6f2

I run a triple core from the above mob when I went from 1.3 to 1.7 and quality is great for such a cheap all alloy unit. Great service and Melb guys can haggle down $20 if you pick it up yourself also have great range of decently priced silicone hosing. Another datsun freak nearby their outlet (Aaron) I ran into runs a 3 core N14 rad for his 2ltr SR20DE quad injected racer

EDP - what an effort on that orange master piece rad choice, whole thing looks off the scales.

thanks for all the comments on my sexy engine bay! Now if I'd only get off my ass & yank the motor so I can install a new cam I might be able to drive it again. the AC is still a work in progress, I've got all the pieces just haven;t gotten to completing it I've been busy building a 383 for my satellite.

do what you can afford on the radiator setup, I got a total of about %350 all in for the rad work, fan & sensor I dont think it'll ever overheat.

Fitted the 14" thermo on the 1600 radiator, flushed the radiator, still heating up like a bitch.

So its the SR20 N15 radiator i need yeah?

Cheers

For an A15, the L16 radiator is plenty big enough.

Are you certain the problem is the radiator? Have you tested the radiator flow? It's easy and requires no special tools. See Radiator#Trouble_Diagnoses.

If it is the radiator, just get a *good* A15 or L16 radiator instead of the bad radiator you have.

* Heating up at idle is usually caused by the fan
* Heating up at speed is usually caused by the radiator
* Heating up at all time (idling, low, medium or high speed) might be the thermostat
* Another cause is a misreading temperature gauge

hrmm mite be the gauge, after flushing it it does run a little better, when its real hot it bogs down and kinda misses a bit when taking off. the needle is about 4/5ths of the gauge when its hot.

Also i live in Adelaide dude, its been 40o here the past few days, not sure what that is with your imperial #OOPS# but its #OOPS#ing hot.

I doubt i can buy a brand new 1600 radiator for $100 vs the pulsar one anyone, just seems like a far better setup.