Hi,
My datto has been giving a bit trouble. It idles fine but at about 1500rpm it loses power and runs real rough and will stop if I don't let it come back to an idle, if I plant my foot
on the throttle it will come good again after about 2000rpm. It will only do this under part load. It has a stock a12 carb except the part with the throttle butterflys which came of a
120y. Please help.
c.ya
Chris

Chris I have never had much luck with the standard carbs. They are just getting too old, most are too worn. A 32/36 webber on an adapter makes an excellent and
cheap conversion. It improves drivability, power and torque. Makes the engine much smoother to drive and it will still idle well. Good luck

Paul, do you know what jet sizes to use on a 32/36 weber on a standard
A12? Barry

Barry I honestly don't know. The carb I have stored away was running beautifully on a stock 1200 with extractors. It was on my brother-in-laws' 1200 when he bought it. How do
you know what jets are in it? I could look for you, when time permits.

Paul

i am not exactly sure where abouts the jets are in a weber, in the original 1200 carbs they are on the underside of the mainbody, i know a guy who has a celica with the jets on the
inside (beats me how that works), anyway, on the jet (small brass thing with small hole through it) there should be a small/fine number printed on it. this is the diameter of the
jet.
hope that helps a little

Simon

I have a 32/36 DFEV (aka Pinto carb) which is pretty much a mirror image of a DGV.
Anyways, the main jets are inside the float bowl. Undo the fuel line, choke butterfly linkage and 5 screws and the top cover comes off.
The main air bleeds are accessed this way too. They're sittin on either side of the accelerator pump jet on top in the middle. The idle jets are on the outside on each side of
the carb. You can probably get to these with out even taking off the aircleaner.
It takes me 10 to 15 minutes to change the jets.

My B210 w/ an A14 that I just picked up does the same thing. I assume it's a bad accelerator pump, and I plan to rebuild the carb in a week or two.. I'll let you know if that
fixes the problem or not, or if you want to try it first, lemme know if it does it.. ;)

Hey, even though I haven't gotten the misfiring business fixed, I still went out and bought something I didn't really need for my car. The stock 1200 tacho has never been accurate for me above
6500 rpm, it would start bouncing randomly at those speeds. So, I finally went and got a new tach, this one is good from 0-10,000 rpm, it's really big, and has a shift light to help me get
better consistency. It looks cool in there.

By the way, the new distributor came in today, after work I'll drop her in and see what happens! Oh, even though I paid almost $170 for it, it didn't come with a new black box on the side, or
cap, or rotor, or mounting plate, or rubber gasket...man what exactly did I pay for?!! Well it's still better than Nissan, they wanted a mere $675 for the same distributor!!!!!!!!!!!!(I
checked just for grins) If I was back in Washington, I can pick these distributors up used for $15. I bought my whole engine and transmission for the same price I paid for this new
distributor...anyways hope it works, I'll keep ya'll posted.

-Andy

I di manage to fix the carb.
The top of the carb was warped, the accalerator pump would squirt fuel out between the top and body of the carb instead of down the barrel.
I assume that it was also sucking air around the top of the carb.
I would have put another top on it but my other carb is buried under a ton of junk, instead I made another gasket and put it on along with the original gasket. It runs fine
now. hope this helps.
Chris