yeah thats true, but even 150kg less all round would be good. but yeh even 40kg - 50kg from the front and stock weight at the back would be good.

also if i got cf panels that would help the ridigity, wouldnt it?

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For a bit better weight distribution in my sunny, I am planning an alloy drop tank to hold more fuel.
The alloy tank isn't all abuot weight though, I am also doing it so I can relocate the filler cap to behind the number plate.

On the weight of CF compared to regular panels, you have to remember that while CF may be lighter per unit mass compared to steel, you have to build CF panels thicker than pressed Steel.

It's greatest attribute is it's strength per mass.

I really really think there are better things again to be spending your money on before CF panels.

I don't mean to sound condescending but maybe you should be thinking more about how you will actually fit an SR in a 1k!

As far as I know a CA18 won't fit without firewall mods. Seeing as you will have to modify the firewall for the SR you may be able to fix the weight distribution by sitting the motor a bit further back?

You'll never get an SR rego'd anyway in a 1000 in WA
I'm struggling with my CA18et and I know people in engineering dept at rego

Just build a strong A15 and boost it

Then I'll sell you some brakes (when I get some hubs)
Then you'll need my coilover kit for the fronts to make it handle (when I get it finalised)

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I like your sneaky little plug down the bottom there.

If you simply remove the guards, bonnet, bumper, battery, grille & the radiator, you still won't remove anywhere near 150Kg. Never mind replacing these with something else.

Were dealing with a car that weighs about 650Kg ready to drive in stock trim. By the time you remove the engine, gearbox, rear end & front end you just about cut the weight of the rest of it in half & removing 150Kg from this body is a big ask as it represents a very big percentage of the bodys weight.

I think that you had better measure up the engine bay of your B10 first as it's more shallow that any of the later models & the SR engine is much taller than an A series, so it's possible that it simply won't fit.

Think twice, then think again before making any mistakes that you can't undo.

just set the motor back .5m, if u want 50/50

Yeah..drive from the back seat. If that doesn't work, I can wire up some radio control gear for you.

As for Dattoman1000's plugs..they are good advice. He knows his stuff, and takes the guesswork out of the important stuff. It would take years of testing to come close to matching the performance of his solutions. If I had a 1000, I'd be chatting to him, if I wasn't fortunate enough to have all the machining/welding facilities I have, I'd be buying the bits from him.

Putting together bolt on parts, and custom fabricating new parts are two completely different activies. I spend 95% of the time researching/developing parts and making them, compared to the time to install them.

If I owned a WRX or 200sx (silvia), the ultimate car would be finished in under a month, as aftermarket bolt-ons are so freely available.

Yeah, I know what you mean Dattodude.
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I remember looking through the photos on your website, and seeing "another mock up" or "another dumby fit", and realising for the first time that it isn't as easy as some people say, and that alot of time and thinking goes into every aspect of the build.