dodgey

i was asking about 2dr sedan bits, and they gave me the uterus prices for some reason, they probably figured they could rip meoff cause i got a 2dr sedan, pricks!

what about availability, they told me prety much all ute bits have a three week wait on em, is that what they told you

Just thought I'd throw my 2 bobs worth in
don't count Nissan out they still have alot of parts and they are very cheap try them
Ask for parts for 85 ute

they told me they should be in at the end of this month. And yeah, the prices they have on the site are correct, according to them. Not sure, maybe the guy had a brain lapse or something...dunno!

Bottom line is, look for a straight one.

Anything plastic/chrome or stainless can't really be repaired. Get the least rusty/straightest car you can get your hands on..for the funds available. Rust is a genetic condition. If you buy it rusty..It'll always be rusty in your head..so when it starts rusting again, you won't be worried, and it will win the battle.

Get a good one and NEVER leave it in the rain for more than a day. And towel it down, after you get it out of the rain. Put the heater on in the garage to ensure it dries out properly..ok my motherly instincts are coming out again...

Chris.

ps. I've been down the pub acquanting myself with BentAxleBobs favourite fuel...VB.

Get the AE86 Sprinter/Levin next to it!!

Chris.

your from one strange family Chris, lol

Driving a rusty car isn't usually a safety issue but it would be wise to inspect the area under the battery very carefully ... if the front frame-bracket of the strut rod are is rusted, that'll have to be fixed. Mine partially broke, but didn't cause a lethal problem (I could still drive it). It it had fully broken off at high-speed might have been a different story. Oh, at that time my 1200 didn't have have any visible signs of rust on the body.

Quote:We have cars here 30 years old that aren't rusted out, and they weren't always parked inside. Driving it on wet roads is probably what does most of the damage. With the 1200 the problem is water gets up inside the guards, trapped in the doors (especially if the drain holes are blocked) and around the chrome trim, under the floor mat from leaking window trim, etc ... plus lack of priming inside, no rust protection like newer cars have from the factory.

On the other hand I couldn't bear having a car that's locked up except for dry days -- in Seattle that's 50% of the year. My infamously rusted car was pretty good for 20 years parked in the rain, sight of the ocean. When I parked it under the carport the rust seemed to accelerate like crazy. I don't know, maybe the rain helped wash off dust and salt-air residue.

Rust on 1200s is a serious concern and to get ahead of the rust on the ute in the pictures might take either 1) lots of money or 2) lots of time, hard work and ingenuity.

From the pictures it's hard to tell. Looks to me like it might be a 'driver', better than many a beater/bush buggy, if you don't mind the rust. If you live in a dry climate (low humidity), the rust won't get worse, at least not for a long time, if you keep it off wet roads. But if you live in a humid place, especially near salted roads or salt water, then I'd be worried. If you don't mind the rust, buy it cheap (in Washington State, cars rusty enough for holes through the panels but with good drivetrain also go for around $200).

ddgonzal, i think you may be going through a philosophical stage of your life, you seem to be posting a lot of novels

not that theres anything wrong with it, its just a contents page might help a little

Yeah DD, how do you expect to catch up to post whores like 1200rc and myself when you put all of your information in only one post?

Oops, bunny!

Yeah, I'm home sick and somewhat bored ... but I'm convinced the Datsun 1200 Club is helping me get well.