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FIRST thing u do is match your turbo with similar size engine, 2800CC Diesel Turbo is double of what your engine capacity is, which might or might not spool fast enuf on lower revs, is trial and error IMO. yes u can use a Turbo off a diesel engine but u cant run a Draw(suck)through setup wih diesel or its compressor seals will leak.
remember Pajero also came in 2200 CC Diesel Turbo in late 80's try to get one off that model.

we did a cheap, nasty, but brutally effective turbo conversion on an A14 a few years ago.

used an ACL head shim to help decompress a little. I think these are .030 or .040".

removed the mechanical advance mechanism from the dissy and ran it fixed at 10-12 degrees (but we only used LRP -lead replacement petro which is pretty low octane), and had a dodgy water injection system.

we left the bottom end standard and used an 8000rpm redline! Only problem we had was caused by a broken ring which more than likely happened in the first week when we were tinkering with what it was all about and trying to get the detonation under control. it eventually lead to a broken headland on #4 piston.

std clutch would slip at anything over 4lb boost. we used a heavy duty RPM clutch which was still borderline - you had to be gentle with your shifts, but that was probably a good thing for the standard gearbox and diff. RPM also make a sprung centred puck clutch, which is where I would start if I did it again.

We destroyed a tailshaft so I would caution on using a standard one. The mangled wreckage of it looked like exhaust pipe! Not exactly heavy duty...

that's all I can think of for now

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by TAILSHAFT u mean DriveShaft?
also what max PSI u ran successfully on the A14? did u check the HP or E.T?
barpk

by TAILSHAFT u mean DriveShaft?
yes

also what max PSI u ran successfully on the A14?
normally a max of around 10psi, but due to the size of the turbo the real limitation was how much boost it could develop. Boost kept rising with engine speed and each higher gear. Basically the higher you revved it the more power it made cause it made more boost. we never got the wastegate to open, for a while I was convinced it was leaking. Maximum boost we ever saw was 12psi @ 7000rpm.

did u check the HP or E.T?
no, unfortunately we never got it to a dyno or 1/4 mile. The lack of boost in first gear would have hurt the 1/4 mile times pretty badly though. I wouldn't like to speculate on it's times but it was MUCH faster than my L18 coupe on the open road. I'm sure the L18 would get a good advantage from the start line, but I also have no doubt the turbo would have run it down VERY quickly.

I kept the turbo gear when we got rid of the car, and bought a couple of cars (1000/B10 coupe, 1200 sedan) with the intention of reviving the turbo engine, but never got around to it.

We'll have to wait and see how NoPSI's sedan turns out - I can't wait. except that I will probably encounter him in my class at some events...hmmm I'm gonna need more power or better gearing or something!

does any body know where i can get diagrams of blow through and suck through turbo setups? is it because of the excessive pressure in the block that the turbos leak? it had something about leaking turbos in a garret artical in one of the fast or hot fours mags
DAVE

in my case, I thought (or hoped - so I could fix it) there may have been some carbon or something holding the wastegate slightly open, or wear in the linkage allowing some of the exhaust to bypass the impellor and explain the slow boost response, but it was simply that the turbo was too big for the engine.

oh ok then so the turbo was leakin air not oil? so do u think that the pajero turbo will be too big for the a14? also do u know anybody that does crank balancing
thanx DAVE

so do u think that the pajero turbo will be too big for the a14?
no idea I'm afraid. I suspect so since it is off a 2.8l engine, but deisels operate at fairly low engine speeds so maybe not. hey, if it was cheap, try it and see. unless you are making an expensive tubular manifold it shouldn't be too much hassle (or cost too much) to change to a different turbo later if it proves to be unsuitable.

any machine shop should be able to arrange engine balancing for you. they should ask for everything from the front pulley or harmonic balancer to flywheel and pressure plate (won't need the clutch plate), pistons & rods (and the associated bolts for all those bits)

so they basicly want everything but the head and clutch plate amd cam. thanx every one u have been a great help. as i am building this engine pretty slowly i'll keep u posted as to how i go
DAVE