Update:

Got my act together today & replaced the 90 degree intercooler hose and crossover pipe with some mandrel bends, so the whole lot is solid now except for a short joiner. All running sweet now, just need to take it all apart and paint it, and then find a big round air filter to hide everything under.

i had a mechanical on my turbo as a pre-pump and it ran out of fuel on 10psi... of all the places you need to invest your money it is here. for a 100 bucks its worth it. facet electric from odins

A hundred bucks? what are the specs on it? most of the stuff people have quoted me on have been $180+

Just got a 4-7psi 130L/hr fuel pump that ought to do the job. I want to get a dyno run done but I am out of work at the moment so it may have to wait....... hell, If I dont get some work in the next couple of months the car may be for sale.

Time to do some (approximate) maths on what it has cost:

Essential items:

SC14 blower: $280
Alternator bracket (starting point for blower bracket): $15
crank pulley: $10
AE82 corolla water pump pulley (to weld to crank pulley for blower drive) $10
universal throttle cable $19
Carby jets- $50 (for a large selection from Alfa_1750 on ebay) ended up using 155 &190 mains, 175 and 185 air corrector, but more high speed testing to be done with the new fuel pump..... idle jets are 55 & 65
Double squirter pump jet $20
Fuel pump $110
fuel hose $12
Radiator hose $10
relays for fuel pump, o2 sensor & blower clutch fan $35
Idler pulley $53
1210 pc5 belt $27
Flat bar mild steel 40mm x 6mm (2m length) $17 (too much- local hardware store, I was in a hurry to get it done!)

Mandrel bends, flat plate for the manifolds etc were all from the parts bin, but figure to spend at least $80

Hose to join the manifolds approx $20 (I spent $85 on a 90 degree bend but I only used 3 inches of the straight section off one end.)

Sundries: bolts, cutting disks, welding wire etc.... not sure exactly but would be in the order of $100

AFR meter: I consider this to be an essential item unless you have access to a full workshop to tune the carby. $65 for the kit +$100ish for an O2 sensor

Total:$1033

Ouch. that was more than I thought.

Non essential but highly reccommended items:

Pulsar radiator $100
thermofans &thermofan realy/thermostat $160

boost guage $65

thats all I can think of now. I think I need a little bit of a lie down after that..... You really shouldn't add these things up.

Just got a copy of the supercharger chapter for the MR2 (SC12) from my friendly local Toyota mechanic. Have yet to digest it all, but there is official confirmation that:
a) the seals will be buggered if you don't hook up the vac line plumbing, & it will consume the gear oil and front bearing grease.
b) it is controlled by the computer but seems to be Vac/boost related so may be able to be done adequatley with 1 way valves.
c) there are no official specs on the blower oil other than that it is 'special Toyota supercharger oil' and should only be replaced with the same stuff at vast expense........

d) factory manuals are full of pedantic cr@p that you can probably get away without doing.

here's to instant torque

Quote:

I'm going to have to start listening to your wisdom. Even with the new pump it has been running lean at high speed, high load. I need to drop the air corrector right down in the secondary to make sure it isnt a tuning thing, but it tends to come on pretty suddenly as though the pump cant keep up. the pump is rated to 130L/hr and is supposed to be able to support 5L V8's so that points to the main fuel galleries in the carb being too small.

Does the 350 Holley have the same bolt pattern as the DGV? seems unlikley

in other news, the ventilation pipes to the blower are controlled by the ECU, but as a rough approximation they are closed when the manifold is in vac and open when it is on boost. not sure if this will have an effect on the mixtures If it was set up to do that, but with them open the whole time it leans the mixture out quite a lot (about 5 AFR units) as the engine gets extra air through the vents. does not affect idle as much as a normal vac leak though.

Is your setup drawthrough, or blow through?
Are you running a rising rate fuel reg?
If it's blowthrough, maybe you're leaning out because the fuel presure cant keep up with the boost.
And you're right, the holley wont fit the holley flange.

Nah, draw through.

I have pretty much given up on trying a blow through setup. With the number of times I have had the top off the carby using this setup, doing the same work with a blow through would be a nightmare. I can't see how anyone can get a blowthrough carby to work properly when it comes on bost, unless the carb was specifically designed for the application and had some sort of boost controlled enrichment.

If you were to set it up for say 7psi and had the correct mixture under boost, your cruise mixture would be rich by 50%....... and then on transition you still have that problem of the sudden change in both pressure and flow that is difficult to compensate for.

What kind of gain did you get out of the holley over the DGV? Just about everyone who has seen my setup who knows about carbies has said that the DGV is too small (although when you do the CFM calculations it should be about right)

Actually, I took the holley off because the car would barely run. In a bid to try fix the problem, I put the weber back on. That wasn't the problem. I will be putting the 350 back on, but I haven't had the spare cash to buy the filter oil kit for the new filter I'll be using.
Something else which could be a source of lean out for you, is the diameter of the fuel line from the tank.
I upgraded my whole fuel line to 1/2 inch line, including the pickup in the tank. That coupled with a holley blue pump, and my leanout issues ceased to exist.

I was thinking about that.

What did you down the tank end? Did you have to get the bigger pickup welded in?

The line from the tankand all A15 stuff is 6.5 mm. The 32/36 and fuel pump is all 8mm. but the critical piont in the carby, the needle & seat hole is only 2mm, although I have drilled it out to 2.5, and i am pretty sure the hole from the inlet line to the needle & seat is also only about 2.5mm as well..... so why the farking hell would weber put an inlet line that was over 3 times larger than the holes in the critical sections?????