Hey Topgear some nice info there, does the locking of the dizzy also apply for electronic ?? or just old school points.

What needles/jets are you guys running in your SU's?

i believe locking the dissy applies to both points and electronic systems, it involves welding the dissy so the timing is set at a fixed amount wether the car be at idle or full boost 6500rpm. This way your timing wont run away at full boost on you causing pinging and associated head gaskets and rings etc. Unfortunatelly i have never welded a dizzy the shop did mine as part of setting up the computer and tune, if someone had some pics that would be great.

With draw through i have found that the system works a lot better if the turbo is small enough that the impella wheel spins at idle, this way fuel dosnt tend to puddle in the compressor housing resulting in a rich stumble when you crack open the throttle after idling for a while. Also make sure the carby is verticle or slanding slightly down into the compressor inlet or fuel will puddle in the lowest point, mount the carby as close to the turbo as possible too. For a budget approach i reckon use the stocka inlet manifold make a flange for it and piping from compressor outlet to the flange were the original carby used to be. If you dont want to pay for a carbon seal a budget approach would be to remove the throttle from your carby and run a small throttle body mounted to your standard inlet manifold so there is no vaccum to suck out the oil from the seals, you cant run a choke either though. Might have to build a budget kit for my white sedan when i upgrade my turbo some day!

Quote:

Any turbo should be spinning even at idle.

If you have a turbo that's not moving at idle then it's stuffed!

You sure on that i had a t28 on a 1.5L et turbo that boosted to 19psi, 130fwkw, wasnt smokey and that too didnt spin over at idle, maybe its a bit to do with bush or roller bearings as well. Beware the 2nd hand turbos, i wont ever buy another unless ive seen it running fine. Bought way to many fukt ones of the net and importers, they can look fine, have minimal shaft play but still smokey because of the seals. The turbo on the 180b i had used to smoke a bit untill it warmed up then it was ok, still used to spit a bit of oil through the cooler. We cheated and put a tiny as restrictor in the line to stop it, cant be good though. My exa turbo used to smoke massivelly when the exhaust wasnt on from the dump pipe to exhaust, must have been the back pressure helping or something.

Can I see a pic of a J Pipe on an A series please???

Did you search for a j-pipe picture? Here's a good thread with more info on making a j-pipe.
http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/v ... ic_id=10219&forum=1#34954

Can the J pipe be made from regular exhaust tubing or does it have to be more robust? I have some 1 3/4 inch aluminized mandrel bends laying around that I'd like to put to use.

Sundat.... U da man thanks 4 the link on J pipe!!!! Now must extract digit{s} and build it.. I was going in another direction but it was such a fabricated tangle it was driving me crazy. Must remember K.I.S.S-- KEEP IT SIMPLE STOOPID. LOL

A T28 on a 1.5 litre engine should be spinning at idle.

I had a giant T04 on an FJ20 which had a huge turbine wheel and was bush bearing and it still span at idle.

If you have a think about it, there is still a noticable amount of gas passing out your exhaust even at idle and the shaft of your turbo is suppose to be free spinning. I'd say your T28 was stuffed.