Ill take a pic of the bendage soon, im guessing it would take massive force to pull it out if at all possible. The chassis rail is bent sort of kinked up. Forgot about handbrake, need one that works, hydaulic would be the go, im not sure how they only lock the rear brakes must have a valve setup somehow? Thanks for the heads up whitesedan might have to go down soon.

Have you thought about tyre pressure .
harder tyres spin easier ,lower pressure in the rear creates traction ,try some 14s on the front and 12s on the rear .
the bigger tyres on the front will make it control better in the drift while the 12s will spin up easier in 3rd making the boost more usable through the corners .
as for your tank slap problem .get a small alloy tank made enough to get you arond the track you can always remove th old tank too to lighten the load over the axle ....

rotate the camber plate 90 degres with the top odf the slot towards the drivers compartment and will give you castor and camber, pigdog and i have done it, igdog has noticed more benefit than i have


or so the shock nut sits closer to your brake booster in that photo

ok never thought about that, so that way you run lots of positive castor which from what ive read is basically negitive camber when turning, which is only when its needed i guess. Ive heard it said that extra castor stops the front from folding over/leaning over on its self?

Also makes the car a lot more stable and predictable at high speed and under braking.

You want to make something up like this.

Quote:

all of that sounds like you're running street tyres and crappy ones at that. No way are 185/60 series tyres "too tall" causing the popping off the bead.

are you also running a locker? if so you'll never get rid of the entry understeer as long as you use street tyres. Fit semi slicks to the front, and run some aggressive geometry and it you can get rid of it, as long as you don't go too low in the ride height.

difficult to give you any thoughts on camber when you haven't even said how much you've got, which probably means you haven't had a decent wheel alignment, which means you don't even have a starting point worked out. But basically, its damn hard to get enough camber for a track car, let alone too much!

nothing wrong with stanza struts. I used them on my old circuit coupe without any problems - you've just got to get the right springs. And I'm going to use them again on my 120Y. They worked very well for me. Seems to be a bit of a theme here of late that they're no good...

I can give you some details on how to make a decent spring pack for the rear using some bits of 120Y leaf springs. I'll have to find my scribbled notes... And go for a rear sway bar too.

The main problem with stanza struts is they dont give enough travel for a road car that has been lowered to some extent, and people bolt them in with lowered or cut springs thinking they will.

My partners car is so much better with the stanza tubes cut down to suit the Z31 (300zx) kyb inserts, she wants suspension travel like a new car and she doesnt like to slow down for bumps etc. Its great now and really smooth, only problem still is the king springs are too stiff compared to the stock jobbies, probably will get some new standard rate springs and put the 1200 sway bar back in.

In my road car I have the stock 1200 drum struts with 280z rear springs cut down and motorcycle fork oil, 120y sway bar. The rear ive cut down the bump stop and made a spring pack using 1200 and corolla ke55 leafs. Its pretty low and doesnt bottom out but Ive gone to a bit of trouble to make it work.

Damn computer froze and lost all my text, oh well. Thanks L18-B110, it is running a locked bw 68 diff from 120y sedan. My tyres were continentals. If i had a budget of 200-250max per tyre (front only) would i be able to purchase some semi-slicks, im guessing these grip better due to being a much softer compound, also wear a lot quicker id guess. Have not had a wheel alignment since camber plates so i cant say exactly but looks to be -3degrees at least. It did improve handling. The first thing i will do will be wheel alignment after i have worked out all the bits i will run and repaired damage. The problem ive had with stanza struts like whitesedan says is they bottom out easilly, im not overally low, 1" between gaurd to tyre, was shocking with king springs, still evident with gemmy springs but much better, never bottomed with ea falcon front springs but these are really to large and dont seat properally, also VERY stiff. What springs did you run and what ride hight to avoid bottoming? Id love the info on rear spring pack and sway bar, lengend! I also have 120y sway bar. Interesting info on the 280z rear springs, so these are same size as 1200 springs just beefier/stiffer? Was running munroe gt gas shockies, there knackered from bottoming out though, wierd creaky noises no good! Thanks people really got my brain ticking!

Yeah all 240/260/280z springs are the same diam as the 1200 springs, heaps stiffer though, I was also looking at some 180b rear springs at my mates the other day, should be the same diamter as well.

You'll find the gas shocks are crap mate, steer well away from them, they offer no dampening and are too stiff and bouncy. Even the stock serviceable setup is better with some motorcycle fork oil.

Go to Shaun at bridgestone on henley beach road, hes a dato man, always giving me huge discount on tyres. Im getting a set of Toyo 880's for the race car through him. I got the supercats on my road car with about 30% discount.

I ran Stanza struts, Monroe shocks, cut down Gemini coils (cut off all the tapered wire, progressive rate part of the coil) and wired them in.

The Z springs will be too soft for track use IMO. The ultra stiff commodore springs you've got will also be contributing to your understeer problem.

I had the 1200 castor rods modified to be adjustable, and ran as much castor as we could - had to cut the gaurds and flares to get clearance for that.
toe normally ran between zero and 2mm out
about 4degress camber - redrilled x-member and slotted towers.
120Y front sway bar
17mm whiteline rear swaybar
locked Corolla 4.3 BorgWarner
Pedders rear gas shocks (I later went to Koni adjustables which I had re-valved, but they weren't any better - probably only made the car twitchier)

use poly bushes everywhere you canin the front - control arms, castor rods, sway bar link pins and D buhes if you can get them. The poly bushes will stiffen the response of the swaybar!

leaf pack... I'll try to remember to check exactly what I used tonight.

this was all very cheap, but also very effective. Alot of trial and error development went into it.

semi slicks grip better because of their compound and construction. They won't last as long, but you'll get years out of them on the front if you just use them at the track. A 185/60*14 should be somewhere around $200ea. Be warned though, most semi slicks are a bit wider than the same size road tyre, so you may have clearance issues.