lol look how flat and fast you're going compared to me

Looking a tyries car, i guess that there is some rubber rake in there already. the nose is pointing done normally. i would be looking at some different shockes in the front or up the spring poundage. From my experience with my 12, is that stiff up front and soft in the rear seems to work the best. Theer is a point however where too stiff will have a negative effect. [understeer]

yeah benny you are right the front is very soft, whereas the rear is pretty hard, so I guess I have some work to do...

If you can, try and hold as much speed through turn 1 at wakefeild [end of main straight] Just a dab on the brakes and turn [unless you have rediculous amount of speed or high HP]. it maks for a grrrreat run up the hill. keep it in 3rd gear

yep thats what I was doing, On my speedo it was showing 170-175 at the end of the straight, held speed nicely up around the top, but then didnt have the grunt to get speed up along the back straight. That was my main problem, not enough grunt, but I'm sure you know all about that

I have been looking through the old pics. here is a nice one at the right hander at the top of the hill. [well i reckon its ok]

Since as you guys know I do a good bit of instructing track side, I'm going to ask some questions as driver induced understeer is very common.

When entering a corner are you coming off the brakes at the same right you wind in the steering....If not. your likely popping off the brake pedal.......which bounces the front end up in the air (think pop a wheelie). This causes understeer of course.

Also snapping the wheel in vs. winding in the steering oh so gently that you can feel the wheel pry on the tires.


If your off the brakes and trying to wind in more steering........that just doesn't work. You either have to trail the brakes or give the throttle a tiny breath to get the car to rotate.

End of day you should be steering the car with the pedals more than the wheel (read trail brake thorttle steer)...sorry if I'm being presumptious but what I read sounded like what I hear from folks trackside who suffered from driver induced understeer.

Ok with all that said suspension is just like an engine where you need a set of compents. Anit-sway bars should be installed in sets 7/8ths fron 5/8ths rear works well for most 1200's & 210 /120Y for street. (22mm front 16mm rear) Tyrie for sure I'd get the ride height sorted front to rear even if it's blocks on the back....that can't be helping.

I has a 74 B210/120Y for the street and with wide tires it had a hint of oversteer........trailing throttle would tighten it's line nicely. Stock it was pretty nuetral but with 165 tires the grip levels were pretty low so now way could you be aggressive with it unless on gravel.

Tom

Pretty useful thread here. Here's a pic of me at my local kart track entering the tight hairpin-like coner near the spectator area. I'm not sure where my faster stuff is but if you look for "Aidan Kayrooz" in the sprints section of gazpix you should find the few I'm thinking about (this years stuff though as I've only stated doing the sprints this year).
At the time the car had 175\70 r13's and 185\70 13's with standard clapped out rear shocks and just the Stanza struts with standard replacement shocks and I'll call it "stage one" lowered king springs.
Now the rear end is sporting some shortened Hilux shocks or something and I'm in the search for some nice grippy 13's to go on the hustlers' as they're all worn pretty bad now(probly due to the shotty psi I had in them for years. I ended up lowering it from 38 to 30 to 26 psi all round but 23-5 would probly be better for them.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=12885&full=1

i'd also like to say that the back end skips around sharp corners (bounces) and i cant figure out why the out side tyer does it. Its does under steer but i dont have the problem that tryie has.
Also i had my leafs re done a while ago and had them looked at again and was told there is only normal where and was toldd that i shouldnt have axle tramp what so ever.
My old man (mechanic by trade) had a look and is installing so tramp rods (i think he called them). Can people please xplain what theres are his explanation wasnt really good.

I have the tramp rods on my car. All they are is a straight rod that bolts to the bottom of the rear axle (next to the u bolts) then travel forward to the front spring shackle. The rods use the same attachment points as the springs so they will travel up and donw with the springs

Try this experiment;

Lay a pencil flat on a table (it's represents the axle) take two strips of paper and tape them to the pencil as if they were leaf springs.......now tape the front and back of the of the paper strips to the table (like the springs mount on the chassis)

Now twist the pencil.......see how the strips of parer twist with it. Springs need to flex....when you gas it, for a split second the springs will twist around the axle then the force of the springs overcome the twisting force of accelration so the axle snaps back.

Now tape two pencils (on the same plane as the paper strips) to your pencil (axle)........the solid pencils will pivot up and down but won't twist.

With tramp the axle will twist up then back then up then back..........rapidly till you get to the point that wheels start hoping up and down.................the rods ,since they are solid, will not allow the axle to twist.

The rods will likely change the balance of the car. Also make sure your rear dampers are in good order as bad ones can add to the problem.

Tom