well what do other people think of iridiums?

surely some of the racers out there must have tried them once?

oh and out of curiosity, how do you regap a spark plug?

i regap it the wrong way, with the blade feelers not the wire ones. and tap it to the right gap and pull the blade out.

Have iridiums in the gt, cant gap them, they are only pregapped. will only last 30 to 40,000kms in the gt.

in the sportivo, people tried them but with poor results at first, they run 100,00kms platniums. Some found it better with normal copper ones every 5 to 10000kms. more power in high stress applications.

so you just massage the ground electrode closer to (or further from) the +ve one.

well ill stick with the standard BP5ES ones for another set, and get this bloody coil voltage solved...

fingers toes and eyes are crossed here!

Put a MSD 6AL on it or Crane HI6. Don,t let it idle for 20mins, WTF!! That,ll fix your plug problems, Big race cam + low rpm =unhappy plugs & owner. New plugs= happy engine, whats that tell you, the plugs are the prob don,t f**k with the carbies. I would,nt of considered driving it without some form of decent ignition seeing how it,s supposed to be a hottie. Goodluck dude I hope you nail the sucker

we have always said it was ignition. iridium plugs wont help. They will track carbon between the thread and the electrode insulation and will be stuffed again soon. You cant clean them either. You need a JTS ignition system and also the hottest standard plugs BP5ES you can get and be prepared to change them alot if you do some sitting in traffic and just idling. This is a full race engine. You cant leave it idle for more than a minute or 2... The carbs were fine and didnt not need the chokes changed.

for plugs on my 1500, that was a bit strong, I went one colder and V groved, made a difference, prolly the only time I've ever felt plugs make a difference, (unless they were knackered of course)

BCP6EVG... or BP6EVG.. one or the other...

the sparkplugs are the very first thing thing to check.
many a bullsh1t problem arise from dodgy sparkplugs.

i would buy 4 sets of them...its the problem along with your ignition. set the carbs back to where they were and buy jts ignition problem solved.

I don't know how i've missed this thread,but anyway we had the same problem a couple of years ago.The motor is basically the same as you have described yours,cam carbies chokes etc. the bottom line was down to faulty coil,overheating and not doing what it was supposed to do,there was also some signs of burning deep into the high tension lead plug on the coil.PS i also kill any garden variety NGK plug after a couple of days of competition,they just foul up,have now changed to Bosch super 4(WR78)same heat range as BP6es with good success so far

Ronald I've experienced the exact same thing (idled fine but as soon as you try to rev it at all in died/missed) under the same circumstances. In my case it was a brand new epoxy filled - as opposed to oil filled - bosch non-ballast 12V coil. I had assumed that by removing the ballast resistor I could use this type.

After much head scratching (the engine had been out for a few years while the car was being rebuilt so wasn't sure where problem was)...

I solved it by trying the old 6V coil & ballast resistor.

I did try exchanging the new coil for another the same in case it was a dud but to no avail.

Later went to electronic ignition and the 12V coil finally got used and worked fine.