It's always something. Anyway, my right rear bearing is gone. First to locate a bearing, actually two for both sides, and the accompanying parts. Most parts have been located except the bearing proper at this time. I may have one located, but my main concern is any tips or techniques to replace those items with minimum frustration and broke knuckles? This will be one of those shade tree mechanics jobs done in the driveway. Dimlight, I'd drive over for a visit & a few pointers, but the right rear is just grinding away. I would appreciate any tips on this job. Many thanks and happy motoring, ODM

I've never replaced a rear axle bearing, but packed mine many times. If you pack it with grease, it may work well enough to drive it some more.

My Nissan book says

1. remove the drum, then remove the four bolts holding in the axle
2. pull the axle out (easy enough, I put the drums loosely on backwards and "hammered" them off pulling sharply on the drum, sometimes a length of chain can be used if they are hard to get out). If you have a slide hammer, that migh work as well.
3. replace bearing locking collar by "nicking it deeply with a cold chisel in several places. It will then slide easily [off the axle]. Be careful not to damage the axle shaft with the chisel.
4. Set the bearing remover ([Nissan Tool] ST37130000) and remove the wheel bearing." ST37130000 looks like a very long tube with a threaded crank. I'm guessing it's a very long version of gear puller.

By the way, the bearings really do need packing every year when they get worn down (unless you put new bearings in). Using the thick "axle grease" rather than the "high-temp disc brake grease" will help the 90-wt from leaking past the seals so fast. New seals will help, but ball bearings always eventually wear and cause some play in the shaft, hence a little leaking past the seal. Roller bearings as used in disc brakes is a far stronger longer-lasting design. I guess the advantage of ball bearings is less expensive and less friction.

Sounds great and less intimidating than my manual. One bearing is found and looking for 1 more to do both sides. Speaking of gear oil I just changed that out and am using 80w-140 because of the heat down here. Summers over 100 are common. Many, many thanks for the reply and I'll post how well the repair goes. I first must spend the next 2 days on duty at the local fire station so I will be delayed a bit. Have a great day, ODM in Dallas, Texas

The hard part sounds like removing/replacing the bearing. I would probably take that part to an automotive machine shop, but I'd do the rest myself.

So far so good. I had to make an inprovised slide hammer and it broke free after a few pulls. The only problem thus far is removing the old brake line connection so I can remove the entire shaft. That thing is really stuck on there. I don't want to damage it. Anyway, we'll see how the bearing routine goes and I'll take your advice there if it is a problem. The shims seem to be made of paper so I can make them if needed. So the right side is about ready to drop loose (just gotta remove that brake line). Many thanks for the support and I'll keep advised of progress. ODM

Hiya

You do need a press in order to push the bearing off the axle. You can whack the collar with a chisel (just like the book says) but the bearing is REALLY pushed on the axle hard. Your local mechanic will be able to push the old bearing off, push the new one+ the new collar on..

For the brake line, use a good pair of ViceGrips (locking pliers) or a tubing wrench. They can be really tough to get loose.

I appreciate the reply. I have a mechanic lined up if needed. The bearings and collars will be in Friday - had to ship them from California. I am looking for a 10mm flare wrench for the brake line but haven't found one, so I may just have to make one. Or resort to vice-grips as in the other post. I've done that before.

I remember changing the seal out once with a friend on his 1200 and everything came off so easy. Mine stuff is really tight. Again I really want to thank everyone for the advice. I catch a lot of flack from people about this car, but I want to see just how long I can make it last.

Sorry to join the party so late. Especially since I was mntioned in the first post! D'oh!

Anyhoo, as I said in my e-mail, I have never replaced a rear wheel bearing. I usually put a B-210 axle in straight away when I get a 1200.
As for the flare wrench, I've tried to make one before and had no luck. Perhaps it was because I was only willing to cut up a cheap wrench, maybe if I started with a good one, I don't know. Usually someone before me has rounded off the corners and I have to resort to the Vice Grip method.
Ain't it funny how the Japanese tighten everything as if it were a head bolt?

Thanks for your advice. I found a flare wrench at Auto Zone even after the manager didn't know what it was and said none were in stock. The dern thing worked and didn't tear up the brake fitting.
Now the bearing; it is pressed on tight. I can see it would be awkward to remove & replace with my few tools and abilities. However, I'll get it figured out. The right side was devoid of grease or lube of any kind and the bearing looks like it got "baked" pretty good. The brake backing plate really makes it difficult to get to. Ought to be a challenge that should be overcome without too much trouble (cross my fingers).