reuby_tuesday, the fins are the ribs that run across the back of the calipers. As for the backing plates they are ok to leave off (might upset the transport authority), better again cut vents in the backing plates to direct air onto the disc, dont know if it would make much difference though.

Reuby i think what tyrie was talking about was the fins part of the casting on the calliper themselves that catch the cool air and cool the calliper not the backing plates he ground them down as they increase the height in the caliper

mt latest project car isn't rusted out, it just spent 5 years with no doors on it... the rust on the inside of the firewall is just surface rust - I should have killrusted it before I put it together

only really bed area of rust is the spare tyre well... it doesn't exist any more

apart fro that it's all good! andthe really rusted out car (the sunny) isn't going to be a problem anymore, as it no longer runs...

anyway, back on topic - the struts in it are off my March '77 120Y (The Defect)

I was going to use the struts and calipers form the stocky struts - but the seal and rubber bits were perished and I didn't know what they were - they DID clear my 200BSX alloys thouh!

I will be using the struts from the stocky struts though as I think the shockes on them work as the coils have been cut (the coils are going too - different diamater coils fleft and right)

those struts hissed when I pushed them unto the wheelarch so I'm hoping they are good...

not wanting to spend $250 on monroe inserts

I still have the ORIGINAL struts out of the Defect III (current project) as the shockies still work on them) as it's only done 130,125 kays they are stil filled with oil!

but they are early model struts as TD3 is a July '74 120Y

have to see what Pheghm (so called because it's that gross green colour that 120Y's were painted) has under the front of it...

that's another 120Y I have to retreive...

Rodger that folks, thanks for the clarification.

Right

Will have a look at those fins when I get back home tommrrow. (so over work right now!)

About the cooling fins, I didnt think that they were that high, but Ill look tommrrow.

Rock on...

White sedan,

They were on an early Sunny (round headlight model). I'm guessing thay were the stock ones?

They definately weren't the better looking late sunny ones because I've got those on my coupe.

Damn, I should have taken a pic.

okay call me crazy, but i too like the look of 12" rims, plus when you put your foot down and dont get tracktion you get to leave a big cloud of smoke :) I wonder if there is a way to put the 120y rotors and brake onto the 200b stut tower. Sure you cant stop as quick but you can always adjust your driving style. From what i can see, it depends on your front end as to what strut tower and rotor you can have. The 120y front end has a completly differnt lower control arm compared to the 180B/200B/240K. I cant see any easy way to make the two fit. The 120y standard one is shorters too and has a differnt bolt pattern when the ball joint bolts to the bottom of the tower. A 120y front end is too weak as the engine mounts break and plus i dont think the ca18 would fit on them. My other problem is i want it low but having 14" and 13" means moderfying the gurads, which is hard to get real nice. I just pucked up a straight as 120y for $700 from the wreckers and dont want to touch it with a hammer

oh yeah and i have hassled pigdog about this before too :)

Its easy, use a late 120y or late 1200 ute balljoint and then a stanza steering arm, the strut will bolt to this. If you want 10mm more track either side use a stanza balljoint.

As for using 200b struts with 120y brakes wouldnt have a clue but 180b or 1600 have similar brakes to the 120y, maybe 12's will fit over those.

Also its a strut leg not a strut tower, the tower is part of the car in the engine bay.

okay, so just to get this into my thick skull... I'll use a 200B front end, put a stanza control arm (early or late stanza?), then put a late 120y balljoint thus using the standard rotor, tower etc.

Ok is yours late model or early, you'll have to use late model arm and 120y balljoint together. The stanza control arm and late 120y, sunny control arms are all identical.

Early 120y control arms have different balljoint pattern same as early 1200's.


So your front end will consist of;

Late model 120y, stanza or sunny lower control arms
Late 120y balljoints
Stanza or sunny steering arms
Stanza or sunny outer rod ends
200b struts
Late 120y radius rods