A14force-

the water injection has given me this massive buffer zone. You can screw a bit more timing in and shoot for a handfull more ponies (probably 10-15%), or you can be happy with a small gain but be safe in the knowledge that you are no longer right at the edge of detonation. It just gives a bit more confidence that the whole shooting match is still going to hold up on a hot day..... so long as you keep an eye on the water level!!!

Quik 1000- I hear ya buddy! man we've all got rocks in our heads...... especially doing this cr@p to road cars.

Did you buy a kit, or make one?
Do you have one nozzle or two? What size oriface(s) are you running?
How much more spark are you running? I have a washer bottle that is destined for life as a H20 injection resivoir.

Nah, i got lazy and bought a kit. I have no time at the mo.

not the best quality kit in the world, but seems to do the job- 150psi pump and all. ebay jobbie, be-cool or some such dodgy name. came in at under $300 AU

150cc nozzle. could probably have gone 200 or 250, but I didn't want to choke it.

Plenty of scope for a high pressure homemade kit, its just that sourcing the parts will take you forever.

got an extra 5 deg of timing before detonation (which is still more of a transitional problem due to pump jets that are too small, rather than an outright ping through the whole rev range) I played it safe and split the difference at 2-3 deg.
still goes good


but not as good as the Suzuki SV1000 that i have my eye on.......

So it delivers 150mls of h2o per minute? Did the kit come with different nozzles? Anyone know where I can find a table of recomended cc's per engine cc's? how much boost are your running now? didn't you sh1t your old motor?

yeah, 150 a minute. no different nozzles, but they are available.
the guy selling had reccommendations for nozzle size, but there is plenty of stuff out there about it if you have a quick google.

I had another crack at fitting the holley to my blown A15. I had thought that problem last time was fouled plugs from running too rich with too cold a heat range.
But I was wrong. It turns out that the brass float was leaking, and it was flooding. I swapped the float and had another go.
Started up fine, and revved up okay, but when I took it for a ride it went flat and died when I opened the throttle far enough to go from the transfer slot to the main fuel metering circuit. So I swapped the main jets for the biggest ones I could find. Then it went. It was kinda soso out of the hole. But going by the seat of the pants method, I reckon it went harder in the upper rev ranges.
I found that when I rev it up to say 4000 and look down the barrels, that the velocity is drawing fuel out of the accelerator pump discharge nozzles. I've checked the check needle, and even tried using a different one and a different discharge nozzle. I ran out of time , so I put the weber back on for the drags on sunday. (But they were rained off)
I've emailed holley, and they recommended trying a ball with a hevier weight. Some carbs use a check ball and weight, some use the needle like mine. So down the track I'll swap the holley back on, and have another nudge at getting it running right. I have the holley adapter plate drilled and tapped for my nitrous oxide nozzle. so there's extra incentive to make it work.
After rereading this thread, I'm quite keen to measure the vaccuum between the carb and blower. The holley book said that at WOT there could be as much as 5-6 inches of vaccuum. So I'd like to see how low it'll be with my carb. Contrary to what I have been led to beleive, the powervalve enrichment circuit may be able to operate on my set up.

guys i jusat wanna to ask will it be ok if imusing march k10 supercharged on my a15 with stock internals ??? how bout the boost setup i plan to use either 0.3-0.5 only..i afraid thats my engine blow ??? can someone guide me

standard internals are pretty tough but i wouldnt go over around 5-8 psi and you can run a few psi more if the motor has been rebuilt

hmm thanks