I'm not sure about the US but there is a difference in Australia and New Zealand. The Sedan has a horizontal speedo and no rev counter unless it was the SSS in which case it was mounted on
the console. The coupe has two round dials - speedo and rev counter and looks rather more swish. Did the US sedan have a standard rev counter? I find your comments on ride and handling
interesting. Conventional wisdom was that the sedan with it's 90 degree rear shocks had better handling potential than the coupe with its 45 degree rear. My first coupe had been converted
to 90 degree for rallying but it was a poorly engineered job and used to bind with the rear A framed. I broke the A frame and blew a shock within the first month and the car has now been
converted back to factory.

Two round dials? spec 1200 coupes have three round dials... speedo, tacho and the other for combined fuel and temp. They have a centre console with a big clock in it too. All
the sedans have a strip speedo. I definately think my 2 door sedan outhandles my coupe (both are stock) and it rides better too.

Eddie
England

In a Datsun I never pay attention to the temp or fuel!!! :)

The English versions of sedans must have a different dash. All of the sedans and coupes that I have seen here in America have the tri-holed dash, tach or clock (or cover plate)
in the left hole, speedo in the center and the temp and gas guages in the right. Once I got real tires on my sedan, it sure did handle well and had a very smooth ride.

My mom bought a brand new dark green Datsun 1200 in 1973, I was 11 years old. I can still remember the price, $2350.00 (Canadian) incl. tax. It had the best fuel economy of any car available
in Canada in '73, 42 miles per imperial gallon. On my 16th birthday I got my learners permit, the two weeks later my full liscence. I was unleashed on the unsuspecting motoring public behind
the wheel of our Datsun 1200. In the '70's Canada was in transition to the metric system. Our 1200 had a MPH speedo while the roadsigns had changed to metric. I would drive around in MPH. If
a roadsign said slow to 70KPH I'd go thru @ 70MPH & eventually was adding another 10 MPH. Dad had replaced the 4ply-bias toyo tires with Michelin'X', I haven't driven many economy cars that
handle as well as a 1200, even today. It's a good thing mom had no idea how I drove her little green car.Some nights I'd put 350 miles on the car,(it cost about $7.00 to fill the tank on the
1200 in 1978). Dad however was a different story. I can remember being called down to the carport where dad was crouched down beside the car, looking @ the excessively worn tread on the outer
edges of the 145/SR/12 tires. "Don't you think it would be a good idea to slow down a little on the corners?" He asked.
Oh ya, I remember why I started this message. Our 1200 Sedan had the 3 hole round guage set with a blank spot where the tach should have gone.

To add to the dash trivia the console mounted tacho in the NZ SSS was an Aussie made VDO unit. The clock in the US 1200s was an optional extra not offered in Australasia as far as I'm aware.
The Japanese GX Coupes had the clock mounted in the gearbox console.
Hey Teretonga, I'm a little curious about your rear end set up (ow err). The A arm set up can work really well in a car if you mount them correctly. My current race car has one and it allows
the rear roll centre to be right in the centre of the diff mounted pivot. The important thing to remember with the front mounts is to keep them on the same centre line as the front spring eyes
ideally drill out the original bolts and run longer ones right though to pick up the front mounts off the A arm. Now the best trick of all is the way you mount the rear diff mount. The problem
as you have found is that with a fixed rear mount the A arm twists the diff housing turning it into a giant sway bar eventually ripping itself off. Mount the rear rod end in a thick walled
piece of tube , then make another tube that allows the smaller tube to slide happily in side it ( I have put Delrin bushes in mine). Now build your A arm around these bits with 2 arms either
side forming 2 vees. I saw this method about 10 years ago under a US Trans Am Mustang and thought it was a brilliantly simple solution to a common problem. The sliding action stops the binding
up as the suspension moves. Remember the A arm is only there to stop the diff moving sideways, 2 top links to stop axle tramp will help as well, I can assure that it works very well as I
fitted at least 6 of these set ups to cars.

The set up I found myself with had a couple of things against it. In his eagerness to mount 90 degree shocks the previous owner had made up a lovely set of turrets and then found he had
to navigate the rear subframe. Solution was to lean the shocks over to about 110 degrees - not good! The second thing was the front mounting points of the A arm were not inline with the
front spring mounts and the rear was rigid. So eventually something had to break - luckily it was the shocks and the A arm together! Still it was interesting while it lasted. It was my
first coupe and after 240Z's I just thought it was a quaint handling trait of the solid rear that a 1200 coupe would become unsettled in mid corner bumps and hop across the road!