Quote:

what makes you think i know very little about them? i expressed my opinion of them, negative as it may have been, and some how now i have no knowledge of them?

i did also say that they have their place in the automotive world. All of the applications which i listed i have no vested interest in, hence why i see no great advantage in having one.

i accept that most cars manufactured these days are autos, but i don't have to like that they are.

sorry to have expressed my opinion.

Geez Dodgy,you sure are rubbing a lot of people up the wrong way lately.You going thru the change of life or something?

Quote:
It's a service I provide.

Well, I went into the auto specialist and bought a shiney new modulator valve ($55.00 I think they saw me comming) they also gave me som very usefull info on removing and installing the new unit.
So, I installed the new valve and relocated the vacuum line so it recives no boost (between the carb and turbo). This seems to have stopped the smoking problem but it now has some "interesting" shifting patterns: gentle cruising it seems to shift 1-2-3 with no probs.
However when it shifts 2-3 with light boost the trans. seems to "slip" for fraction of a second. I dont belive the trans is slipping as it was fine with the the old valve drawing vacuum from the inlet.
Im thinking that maybe the new valve is seeing a "faulse vacuum" as the turbo starts to come onto boost.
Ill try to mount the vacuum line for the new valve in the old position on the inlet manifold and fit some sort of one way valve with a small leak (as someone else has sugested).
Anyone else have any sugestions? How do they get around this on other early, auto, turbo conversions?
Iv been told the boost should not affect the modulator valve but i rather not risk my nice new purchase.

So initally it was hooked to manifold vacuum, then that's where it should stay or it will see odd things like unusual vacuum spikes, moving it back and fitting a check valve should fix that. the ones used on the vacuum advances here were something called a vacuum delay check valve, so that cause issues, I think the delay was in releasing vacuum, but not sure, so those might or might not be a problem...

Iv got an old "turbosmart" boost controll valve it has a spring loaded check valve and and adjustable bleed. I might be able to modify it to do the job?

yeah that should do the job, but make sure it has an inbuilt one way valve or it will cause similar issues as you had originally.

oh just read it has spring loaded check valve, even better.

Just had a look a the turbosmart valve and i dont think that it will be an option partly due to the fact that the pigma wont have boost controll and the fact I found an inline check valve (from an early B10 manual water-bag windscreen wiper squirter system).
I put the valve inline and hooked back upto the inlet manifold I also punctured the vacuum line after the check valve so as to not leave a vacuum lock in the line going to the modulator valve.
On the road it seems to hold 2nd for a little longer than standard (a bit like pressing the performance button on a late model auto shifter) but i can live with that and with no smoke I`m pretty happy with the results.
Now it time to up the boost, fit that new electronic dissy, and richen up the mixture a bit.
Just to think.... 2 weeks ago I was looking a r31 or vl commondore as a donor out of the paper. (I looked at a couple of vl`s $800.00 with reg: Tell `im hes Dreamin`) Head/Head gasket failure seems to be rife with these cars.
So the moral of this story seems Dont listen to the "nay" sayers (various Zedcar sites), and always check that pesky modulator valve if you have a smokie auto.
Thankyou to everyone who contributed to helping me out with this problem after all it is a 1600kg 6 cylinder auto (not quite what this site is about)