I am gathering parts to do an L-20 swap I have a 510(1600) crossmember, 280z 5-speed, L-20 with 9.8:1 comp, a weber 32/36 dgev, and a header for a 510 with the 2.0. my question is will I need to do any hammering on my formerly auto 120y or will it just slip right in?

I am doing the swap for the cheapest biggest and most impressive horsepower and tourque jump possible

i reckon shell slide in as you most likely already know, the car came with the L in Japan

someone told me 120y auto tunnel is same as manual??? not a very reliable source though

Dont worry you are lucky to have the auto tunnel so most boxes you choose will fit.
You should try some twin sus with that compression and electronic ignition off the bluebird.

I'm planning on just that I have a set lined up but they are $600 usd and I will have to wait to justify the expense as far as the electronic dizzy I will be running an accell 300+ race ignition box hooked to a custom recurved dizzy I am hoping to see somewhere between 120 and 150 hp at the crank depending on induction.


expect to hear that I've bloan the diff soon

engine is in I used the 1600 x-member and everything bolted right up I also used the 1600 sedan drive shaft it fit perfectly 100% bolt in snicker snicker

Great work...I have new respect for the 120Y...

I want one now...

Chris

I must admit that I did cut away the radiatior support for more clearance but other than that there was no cutting woo hoo!!!!!

i have the GX twin SU's and manifold, it's currently on my rallycar but for that price ill find something else

no seriously i'd be absolutely stoked with AUS$600 for em, which equates to like US$300

here in the states we didn't get any 4-cyl cars w/su's so getting them is expensive and finding fresh ones is a premium. these are fresh.

I have updated my avitar wit a pic of the 2.0 in the car

mine are freshly rebuilt like 3 months ago, and ive only been driving the car maybe 5-10 times, i just offered them to you for half the price of your other ones

are you interested or not???