I am using 240Z super low King Springs on an unmodified sunny strut body.

and u are still using the same shock absorbers

Hey guys,

I don't get much of a chance to jump on the forums much these days - just too busy!

I have made a couple of mods to my sunny and I am more than happy to share info - but response time might be a bit slow.

With my front struts, we chopped off the strut tube and replaced it with a commodore stut tube with height adjustable coil over hardware added. This allowed us to then use a commodore insert. I use an insert from Hot Bits in Melbourne which is 35 position Bump & Rebound adjustable - works a treat

Incidently, I too am currently working on an engine conversion. The FJ has been retired and I am currently building an SR to go in its place. Hope to be back on track later this year.

Mark.

Why not go the revier stronger ca or fj rather than the sr...If your gonna rebuild a motor why not go the better one from the start.. Just a question not wanting to offend anyone with an sr.

Have been running the FJ up until now. The SR is a lighter proposition for the race car, also easier to get parts for than the FJ.

The new motor will be somewhat of a hybrid also......

Version 1 - SR20DET with standard NA Pistons and NA Cams.

Version 2 - SR20DET with forged European NA Pistons (10:1) and Tomei Pons Cams.

Keep in mind, we have to run a restrictor also which means peak power is at around 5,800 rpm so the normal high rev issues of an SR are not a concern for me.

We will be running approx 18-20 psi boost but everything will happen low in the rev range - bit like a tractor engine.

Mark, Why not try the SR20DE+T route, where you just get a DE & put a turbo on it, like you're 1st option. It seems you don't need to run a lot of boost to make these work making heaps of torque, & this should work in nicely with the restrictor plate. DE's seem to be pretty cheap to buy, & i bet a lot of the drift guys would have stock exhaust manifolds they'd have taken off sitting around. Running lower boost would also lower the engine bay temperature & give things a longer life. I know the DET engines have some things different to the DE, but i think the cranks are the same.

so a standard turbo will be the ideal since u want a low rev when the turbo will work. the bigger the turbo will mean more revs needed for the turbo to make effect

Hi Guys,

Using the DET block to make life easier as the oil & water galleries in the block are ready to go. Also the DET has oil squirters already in place. All of this can be achieved with the DE block but requires drilling etc..... I picked up a Good DET for $800, with a stuffed crank (someone used the wrong bolts for the flywhhel and stuffed the threads). Also picked up a DE bottom end which has already been stripped and the pistons and crank will be going into the DET.

The DE Cams are also being used as they have more lift than the DET cams, but without increasing the duration. The Tomei ones have more lift again and will be used down the track.

With the turbo, I will be using the same turbo as was on the FJ - a 2876r Garrett jobbie - worked well with the restrictor. Runs the smaller .63 (?) rear housing and the .7 front hosuing.

Do whatever you want. Build the car for yourself. So what if it is so powerful that you can't take nan to the shops in case she has a heart attack. Sure people will say it's overkill. But deep down they will be jelous. And rightly so. If you have to sacrifice your nans longivity in order to make this dream come true then so be it. These are the things that we have to do.

If Gary Myers can put 2 superchargers on a mustang and drive it then a SR20DET is nothing in a 1200. If god didn;t want 2 superchargers bolted together then he wouldn't have given us the billet alloy to make such components. I say he's a pussy for not bolting 3 blowers together.

p.s. ignore this whole statement as taking it seriously may affect your IQ...

Damn...it affected my IQ until i read your last sentence...thanks for the "p.s" notice man....