Another small hastle with using some one like Kings is they actually re set(cooking process)based on the original manufacturers height and tension,and do not allow for any sag over the years,remembering this is the only thing you can measure(existing real height)and more often than not if you asked for 2" you put them back in and it's only gone down1"and it cost you a heap!
Cold bending is also a bit hit and miss but it's cheap.
Your little car is suffering from turn in understeer which is built into all road cars to help stop the un educated from spearing off backwards,but not hard to fix

As said the sticky fronts will fix it temporarily..............trail braking from turn in to apex will keep it at bay until you get the set up fixed................it does sound like a mismatch set up. You could also disconnect the front bar as a test to see which way the balance goes.
Now as for stock 1200's and B210's / 120y's I've always found them very neutral once you've mounted decent tires (175/60 or wider).

Tom

sounds like my car ... understeers way more than i'd like, i've started to think the forward rake is the cause. i think i'll be evening my car out, i can deal with the understeer, it's fun to use the throttle to steer in sweeping freeway overpasses. i think it would be an awesome setup for drifting in a parkinglot, it's too easy to take the weight off the back wheels.

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yeh thats half the problem, weight comes off the rear wheels especially around the top of the track and with my rooted LSD it just spins the inside wheel.

This was it last time, bigs and littles didnt help but you get the idea. The only change suspension wise is a maddat 22mm swaybar.

looks like you have about the same rake as me, i have bigger tires on the rear too... not by design, that isn't helping either.

i don't have the problem of the front diving so much... looks like the camber goes way negative too. seems like the answer is to raise the front to send more of the weight to the back wheels... or that's my impression of how it works.

The heavier front bar will also not be doing you any favours, unless you come down in spring rate. At wakefield, you should be running berween 300-350lb front springs. With the 22mm Sway bar, I would probably suggest closer to 300 than 350lb.

Using softer rate springs can help with 'bite' in the front end, and then compensate with a heavier sway bar to control roll

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yeah we run ao48's on the aussie racing cars now and the cars only weigh 450kg.

They do come in different compounds, and generally the larger the tyre the harder the compound - just he way the importer has chosen to go.

They guys we run with that are running heavier cars (Commodores etc) are spewing because they have to run harder compounds. Even some of the late model cars (syliva's etc) are finding they have to run the harder compound due to the lack of availablity of the softer ones. One competitor even changed from 17" to 16" to get the softer compound.

I ended up doing as suggested and running 48s on the back and 32Rs on the front, still understeered a bit but I was running a slight bit of extra rear brake bias so the tail tended to come around a fraction under brakes and point me out of the corners.
The tyres were awesome, sooooo much better than street tyres, and they barely lost any tread Cant say the same about my oil, lost plenty of that

Great, so there's oil all over the track for tomorrow . Did you destroy the T50?