Good reply Bob,now with a rally background you'll know the importance of putting power to the ground at or around the apex,you've already sussed this buy putting weight over the back wheels but...weight is terminal speed,so you gotta loose the passenger down the back.If it was me i'd drop the rear springs around 2" to start with and pull a good amount of tension out of them(assuming it's not a goods carring ute)and fit some decent shocks with good rebound.Too often i see guys thinking hard is good on these little light cars and all they do is arc up the back tyres much to the delight of those watching,but its not quick.Next i'd stick a slightly heavier bar on the front(off a Sunny with mods to fit)If you end up with the car level or even down slighty at the rear thats OK cause weight transfer is now working in your favour.Each of these changes should be tried at the track with the same driver one at a time if poss.The car will probabbly start to understeer on turn in about now,so you may need to lenghthen the rear spring hangars by about30mm to alieviate this and now start to add neg camber,i would recommend 2-3 degrees and the same of caster also 1mm of toe out.It's all a bit of a long and drawn out affair that takes time to get right,but the stop watch does'nt lie and the Toyo's will help a huge amount,but don't be fooled by the masking effect the tyres will have initially.A good handling car will go round corners on rubbish tyres if set up well(not caps)but i'm sure you know this based on your past motor sport experiance.
Buy the way where in the country are you.perhaps you could up date your personnel info

Thanks Bert
I am thinking much the same way as you,soft rear, good shocks etc.
We have got a sprint meeting at winton mid may so we'll be down there try a few things and have heaps of fun.
Once again thanks for steering us in the right direction and confirming the things we already knew.
Cheers
Bob

Albury crew eh!Tell me what was the end result of the Hume Weir track site.Can't imagine it as a housing estate
Cheers

Showing your age now Bert.
Hume Weir Racetrack ended up as a storage depot for emergency repairs to wall (It moved 50mm in a day) about 10 years ago.It was run down then . Actually tried to drive around it a month ago and relive some memories with my son.Got down to scrub corner and all remnants of the rest of it have gone.All that is left are ghost race cars and memoriies

Almost wished i had'nt asked

as a rough guide 10mm if movement will normally get you 1 degree

bert why do u run toe out .. i am running 2mm toe in

Ryan,it's far from ideal for every day road use,especially with a fair amount of neg camber,however when used in track use it assists in turn and thru the "apex" by forcing the un-weighted wheel to do a bit more work and assists with understeer issues.
Think of a row of soldiers marching around a pole in the ground,the guy on the outside of the radius is a known quantity,but change the angle of attack of the guy nearest the pivot point and he can assist by draging the outer guy with him.

Hope you understand my ramblings,circuit racers have been doing this for years,some of the Super cars use up to 4mm at differant tracks
Cheers

yer mine is the opposite coz im sideways lol and not smooth like tarmac... its good to know these little things

I've done my -ve camber the cheapest way. Just elongate the 3 mounting holes ( inwards ). Then, knock the center of the hole a little at the inner part....Just by doing this, u'll get a max of 1.5 deg -ve camber ...sounds silly & destructive, but it works