how bout pushin it then it will b real eco
ha ha jokin
good luck

Mike,
the part # I came up with is no longer available through nissan.
14003-H9950
Looks like my 2 cents was only worth 2 cents.

Kelmo

Hi Mike, I love this. Id run unusually high static compression very small and long intake runners, tiny trottle body/carb about 25mm, any bigger than this you will have severe detonation issues and Programable ignition. You could still run pump fuel because the efective compression ratio(with engine under load) wouldn`t be too high because of the tiny throttle. I would look at at least 12:1 testing might see you closer to 15:1.

Pick a car speed not too fast to give too much aero drag, maybe 85kmh gear the diff to give about 3000rpm at this speed and have all engine bits built for peak effiiciency at this rpm. manifold length, cam specs etc.

Some other ideas:
-Narrow tires w vey high presures.
-0 toe settings
-0w40 full synthetic oil in engine and maybe even gearbox and diff!
- lighten the car where ever posable
-90 deg+ thermostat
- windows up
-heated inlet manifold can help with vapourization w carb.

Alot of these things are generaly considered all out performance negatives but seeing economy is what its all about id be trying at least some of these ideas.

Good luck. I`d be keen to hear how you get on.

I would consider the A10 with the following or an a12 with smaller crankpins with bike rods reduce friction weight.

synthetic oil throughout (diff, box, engine etc)
swirl type round port head with jet coated combustion
chambers, valves, exhaust passages, sodium filled exhaust
valves and low tension valve springs.
high silica skinny tires wrapped on magnesium rims
single su carburettor
4-2-1 ceramic coated exhaust with small steam piping
good ignition system and plugs
Brushless DC alternator
electric water pump
ribbed belts and pulleys rather than v type
knife edged crank, thin rods and jet coated pistons all balanced with the heaviest mother of a flywheel you can get. If you can
find a 20kg or more flywheel you will be surprised on the stored energy effects. This is the single most important aspect on increasing torque in heavy vehicles with smaller engines.

And dont forget another very important and critical element...
make sure the brakes dont rub on your discs!!!! rolling resistance is critical.

killer ignition to light that lean mix and a knock meter so you dont rattle its guts out
david vizard wrote a heap about this with minis in his book "tuning BL's A series engine(not datsun A series)" most of the theory will be applicable to you
17:1 static comp ! but dont run at WOT
dazza

I'd go along with the A10 [which is NOT available in the US] only if fitted to an extremely light vehicle as the 59mm stroke is really just a bit toooooo short to be hauling a B210. For US conditions, I suggest either a 1200 engine, or A12A or possibly best of all, the 1974 A13 with its long stroke & small bore.

The sodium filled valves may be just fine in a heavy duty truck engine that can be on full throttle hauling heavy loads up long & steep mountain passes, often & for long periods of time, but as far as I can see, would contribute nothing to an economy engine. They would cost a packet too.

High swirl head is good, if Nissan made a small port one & it's readily available in the US.

Synthetic oil is probably good, & so would low tension valve springs. Jet coating would be good if going for a world record, but for a local competition, the cost is probably prohibitive.

Again, the tyres & mag rims are very good, but probably cost prohibitive, however steel rims, even if narrowed & welded with skinny radials pumped to max rated pressure [+10%] would serve well in the initial contests.

I agree with the single SU carb. They are available in a small sizing, relatively low cost, are all-but infinitely tuneable, have no accelerator pump, & because of the variable venturi design, maintain good vacuum under most driving condidions. A simple adapter would be easy enough to make & I still think that a heated air intake is a good idea.

Electronic ignition & probably platinum plugs with widened gap [to fire that lean mixture] should simply be a given. You will need all the spark you can get so as to fire the leanest mixtures possible.

The thin rods, knife edge crank, headers, alternator & ribbed belts are probably very expensive overkill at this level of competition but the heavy flywheel, likely from an A15, is both cheap & a very good inclusion. Attaching a machined plate to the clutch face would add more weight & increase the benefit.

An earlier suggestion of very high static compression ratio is actually worthy of a second look.
Maximum cylinder, or compression pressures are attained only with 100% cylinder filling, but at idle, for example, the compression pressures are actually quite low since only a small percentage of the cylinder is filled with combustable mixture. The piston can easily be half way up the bore before atmospheric pressure is attained, so effectively, the 'percieved' compression ratio can be as low as 3 to 1 at idle, particularly with a very heavy flywheel. In an economy engine, if we can get the compression pressures to match the 9, or 10 to 1 that other engines see at full throttle, but do it at very low throttle opening & low volumes of charge in the cylinders, then a benefit would be achieved.
Just don't screw the Webers onto such an engine.
For the exercise, 15 to 1 static may possibly work out to somewhere near to 8 or 9 to 1 'equivalant' at very low throttle opening.

As I see it, the problems with this project revolve around ready availability of suitable components at an affordable price & remember, the US didn't get all the goodies that we did like B20 utes & A10, or the later 1974 & onward A12 engines.

I think that with sensible selection of available US sourced components, that 65miles per US gallon can be achieved in a B210 car but it won't be easy.
Remember, for those of us who are old farts in Australia, Great Britain & Canada that's 78 miles on one Imperial gallon or 125.5k on 4.54609 litres of fuel or 26k on 1 litre. [About 3.85L/100k for metri heads]

That's a bloody long way on a milk bottle of fuel in a realatively heavy car like the B210.
How about you open a new thread in the projects forum & keep us posted.

Compression ratio - I agree with the very high compression ratio approach for this project. Say 15:1 if you can actually achieve it. As has already been stated with small throttle/openings the effective comp Pressure will be comparable to say 9 or 10:1. I reckon this will be the biggest single improvement but you'll have to be disciplined not to use full throttle or risk severe detonation. High octane pump fuel.

Carb - small (1" ~ 1.25") SU type carb as these are very fuel efficient.

Exhaust - extractors, wrapped for heat retention/gas speed, and with std bore outlet (not 2" as this will be too large to maintain gas speed at low rpm/low throttle openings.

Camshaft - std cam (if not an even milder design).

Head - round port head with the most efficient high swirl combustion chamber design (maybe A12 roundport head?).

Hot air - I'm not entirely convinced on the hot air for economy vs cold air for power theory but it would be easy to experiment with this once the rest of the engine is set up.

Quote: I had thought of the cam but didn't think that any cam grinder would have a profile milder than a stock one, but certainly a reduction of the overlap would help in the compression department, so a casual chat with a cam grinder might prove productive after all.

Surely some of them have done custom grinds for economy before.

I'm all for the hot air thing. Yes, the heated air has lower density, but we're talking about an engine that will have more air available than it will ever need in the economy mode & the mixture would be calibrated with the heated air as an operational feature. The real objective is to convert every micro droplet of liquid fuel to a gas before it reaches the cylinders. The great temperature drop in the high vacuum of the manifold at low throttle settings means that manifold heat & heated air are great advantages in this situation.

You guys are terrific! I very much appreciate your comments and suggestions for this project. You came up with ideas I hadn't even thought of. Good stuff indeed!

I have always read that achieving high compression with "pop up" or domed pistons is not such a great idea, as the piston dome impedes the flame travel. Can anyone suggest a way to achieve 14 or even 15 to 1 compression with a flat top piston? I know the E-series 15M head has tiny 17.9cc chambers, but there aren't any A-series heads with a chamber that small are there?

Another question: My current 1608 block has .070" milled off of the deck and .050" off of the H72 head. And I am still using the stock pushrods without any problems. How much more can be milled from the head and/or block before the stock pushrods are too long? Does anyone make shorter ones?

Mike

Electric water pump and fan....
Electric fuel pump as well. What would you do about wheel bearings? Different grease?