from what i've found people are concerned with it binding the springs but i quote


Quote:

so this makes sense to me, i mean i know for sure that my diff moves across more than 1mm so a panhard is just restricting this movement ttto 1mm which is one of the reasons for it isn't it?

My opinion(for what it's worth)build yourself a nice Watts Linkage.They work nicely in all applications and suspension travel(see road car)is not the issue that it is with a panhard bar.

bert could you please tell me what the main issue with them is? is it just the binding or what?

Yeah mate thats about it.If you have very minor suspension travel,as in a race car there fine but having said that i've ripped one out of it's mounting bracket at P/Island several years ago....too much travel.

Thats why the Watts Linkage is so much better(but harder to make)and changing rear roll centres is a snap if engineered into the design.
I would'nt use a panhard rod on a road car with leaf springs,i don't think there needed.

what if you were to slightly triangleate an anti tramp tipe set up? would reduce lateral movement somewhat? and would still alow relativly "full" movement...

Maybe I should give a little bit more insight into my setup.
As I said its a road car that I want to use for track days and sprints. Its been lowered approx 3" in the rear with JTS springs a commodore borgwarner diff and i'll be running bilsteins. It is unfinshed yet but I will also be using tramp rods running off the spring plates similar to caltrac's and would like to run a panhard rod because i am pretty sure the bigger diff will move round alot more than the wee baby diff that came out of it. I also like the idea of the lower roll center. It also has limited travel with the with the JTS springs and bilsteins with approx 5-6 inches travel from full droop to full bump. I don't see binding being an issue with that much travel, if it was an issue rubber bushes could be used

Perhaps I wasn't very clear, I was more interested to see pictures of how people have mounted there's I wasn't asking the whys and what for's. I have already done theresearch on panhard rods etc. It does however seem that not a lot of people run them even with the bigger diff's hence why my searching didn't really bring up any usefull picture/info on there mounting

I had thought of a watt linkage too but I think it looks hard enough to get a panhard in the back there let alone everything required for a watts.

I put a panhard rod in my sedan.

rear suspension link


I made the rod adjustable length, because at different ride heights the panhard rod pulls to one side.

That's because in a 1200 sedan, there's not a lot of room back there to get the perfect mounting points for the rod to attach to. Also a problem to leave enough space for the exhaust to snake through.

I barely squeeze 2.5inch pipe through the monkey bars that are my rear suspension.

Of course with my trailing arms I had to run either panhard or watts. I still hope to put a watts linkage on some day. I have the falcon bw78 bits ready for the day.

I had a gemini panhard rod on leaf springs too, in my 1200 project that ran JTS rear springs and a ute diff. I needed it to locate the diff because of my passion for fat/sticky 205/60 series tyres (14 inch) that stuck better than the cornering G's with more than 2 people in the car.

Thanks, I had forgotten about your car shoey. I had a scroll through the photo's but could really see the body mount end of the panhard. (the end i'm most interested in)
I will also be able to make my panhard longer too because i wont have coil overs in the way so the sideways movement will be less

Quote:How so? the diff doesn't move around unless the tires are slipping...

Quote:

i think it's more the car moving around on the diff. i've got 205 semis on the back with a torana diff and i can feel a fair bit of side to side movement of the car on the diff, especially in quick left rights. i think that because the diff is so heavy it tends to stay put if that makes sense?