Hy guys, I have my ride lowered 2 inches with decambered leaves, but I had gas shocks, I now installed hyraulic Konis, and it now looks slick, nice, the way it was intended originally,the gas shocks kept the rear taller, now, the tires are close to the fender, close but not touching, only when driving, bumps, so I need to turn in the fender lips. (I took pics, will post them once developed) I was told that rolling a baseball bat works. I did it, put the car in neutral, and roll the bat, but the tire seems to give way, and the stuborn fender lips do not give up, one side gave up a bit, the other just will not.Should I inflate the tires to max?(current driving press is 24, they take up to 35 I believe), or should I try my bigger tires(I have some 14 inch ) to make it a tighter fit. The 13's are very close, but the rubber distorts, allowing the bat to relax its pressure on the lip. Other sugestions? The car looks slick, like the Masayuki PB210 pixes, looks made to fit, all the 13X8 wheel and 215/50/13 tire fits inside.
Any sugestions is welcome, I got to correct this minor problem.
Jaime.

i have just had mine done by my mate but wasn't there when he did it so i will ask him and get back to you

p.s when he did them they ended up a little flared. not too much but enough to notice and say ooh they look tough

Are Coupes a double thickness panel around the rear wheel arch lip?

The Sedans rear arches are double thickness, but a baseball bat would do the job. I used some 1.5 inch steel bar to do mine. Make sure that you have good tire pressure before doing it. Otherwise it won't work.

It takes two people to do it. One in the car driving backwards and forwards carefully. And a guy (generally the owner) outside the car doing the risky/dangerous work.

It works ok, although sometimes on the front guards you risk pulling the guard out of shape. I wish that someone could make a die to suit a hydralic press, to either modify stock guards, or make sections to suit the 1200 for wheel flares. I don't like the plastic ones.

Chris.

theres that thing you can buy that bolts on to your wheel hub and flares them from there i have seen in some 4 cylinder mags i'll get the info 2nite and post it tomorrow

If God intended us to have flared fenders he would have given us...............

I doubt it's cheaper than a baseball bat, rounded lump of wood or steel bar....

I've heard those things cost a Mint..They'd need to for the wheel shops to justify $50/wheel arch..

Chris

probably not cheaper but i'd say you'd get a more professional higher standard rolled and pumped guard

a basebat, ive never heard of this method. hows it done?

yeah, you need two people to do it.

Although I haven't done it to the back wheels. The double steel scared me as well. Also I didn't find that I needed it at the back.

How to do it.

Put baseball bat (Or pole/pipe) into the guard so that it is on top of the tyre but under the guard. Now put pressure on the end of the bat so that it acts as a lever on the tyre and presses against the inside of the guard. Keeping the bat so that it still points towards the cnetre of the wheel as much as possible, someone roles the car or drives it backwards and forewards...
Better to do little bits at a time. PUtting too much pressure on it it once tends to leave noticeable creases...

I've done it and it was not difficult. Rolled the car by hand.

It just takes time, a little bit at a time. The idea is not to flare it all at once, but to gradually bend the lip a little bit, then repeat until it is all done.