I started with an 80 HP A14 motor and I shaved over 1/4 inch (6 to 7 mm) off of a GX head. I had to put longer valves in it to keep the rockers aligned because the pushrods stuck up higher on
the head. The compression was 11.75:1 at 215 PSI and octane boost was mandatory. That was a strong running motor. Not all A14's were 65 HP, in America, the A14 motors in 1981-82 had 65 HP. The
75-80 A14 had anywhere from 65 HP to 90 HP, most being 80 HP. Looking at VIN tags at the wreckers, I have seen HP ratings tagged at 65, 67, 70, 74, 78, 80, 85, and 90 Horsepower on the A14
motor. The new Ute they are making in South Africa has a 45 HP A14 motor. I have seen 62, 68, 69, 77, & 84 HP in A12 motors. I also have been wondering why anyone would want to adapt an E15
head to an A14. Didn't Nissan already do that? That is what E series motor is about. Also what would be the reason for using the E series distributor on the A motor with carbs? Remember, the
only purpose for points and electronic distributors is to be an off/on switch for the coil. The high output coils can be used with the point distributor. With EFI, it also uses the distributor
to time the fuel, sort of, or at least it constantly keeps the computer informed as to the degree of the craknshaft. With carbs, that info is pretty useless. On The ROTAX motor, the timing is
set at 45 degrees and it has an electronic digital delay system instead of the vacuum advance but Nissan hasn't used that one as far as I know. The ROTAX motor we use in WKA kart racing is 125
CC and 48 HP. If you can get that kind if HP to CC ratio from a Datsun, then you would be doing something. It is just plain hard and expensive to get 2 HP per Cubic Inch. The ROTAX has almost
7 HP per Cubic Inch. 125 CC's is 7.5 CI.

thanks fester, all the car is , 1200 ute, std gearing 4:11 rear, sunny steel 5 speed, 185,65,13 fr, rears as i told u, all mags, bluebird rear coilovers on the fr shortened 2 coils, has 2
inches clearence between wheel and guard, 120 y sway bar, no movement in front suspension. any way motor is typical jap import with oval port head, uses 1 ltr of oil every 300kms, i have to
run a cup of diesel in petrol to stop pinging, the head was in a lads car with 5 speed, $50 i paid for whole 1200 sedan off lads hahaha, pulled head off and found valve burnt out, bought
another 1400 off another friend $50, swapped valves, faced valves on bench grinder, (live on farm hahaha nothing to lose, spare motors every where), comparing the heads the shaved one had no
chamber and was shaved down to the sparkplug and valve seats, only clearence is the hd gsk, got it running, as i had to drive the car on monday it had to get me to work so i bolted it down,
set the clearences and started the sucker up, still had time to change back to the slugish 1200 i held it flat for two minutes at 7,500 revs, nothing to lose except for the price of the head
gsk, it has now done 60,000 kms in two years on gas, all valves faced on bench grinder and not lapped in, freak motor, who knows, my wife now drives it daily 70kms a day and gets 35mpg on gas,
only other stuff is extractors, cut down aircleaner, only has dinnerplate top and bottom, 2 inch exh with two hotdogs, one 12 inch in the normal place of muffler and 6 inch on end, loud. im a
small engine repairer, lawnmowers, chainsaws jap bikes etc so its fun playing with the 1200's love the club, bye buzzard, thanks fester.

i forgot to mention jetting and compress, 115 and 160 jetting works good and 35mpg and commpressions were 220 225 220
220 bye buzzard.

> any way motor is typical jap import with oval >port head, uses 1 ltr of oil every 300kms, i >have to run a cup of diesel in
petrol to stop >pinging

Are you serious about diesel in the petrol stopping pinging ? I've never heard that one before, must blow a bit of smoke.

I can't believe that there is that much meat availoable to shave off the head. If there was that much meat on my old MG A series motor I could make a killer combo.
However I still don't agree with you on the distributor. I believe the points will burn out with the full voltage. What other basis would the manufacturers have for reducing the
voltage during running. Even if the burn is OK at say 9 volts 12 would have to be handy and certainly not determental. In my theory the reason behind the electronic distributor is
twofold.
1. Allow full spark energy from 12 volts to coil. Particularly needed at high revs and compression. Standard distributor will burn points over time. I have seen this.
2. Remove need to adjust points gap as they wear and also reduces spark scatter from worn distributor. Also aleviates points bounce at high revs.
As far as the E15 head goes I have always been a big fan of belt driver overhead cams and cross flow heads and I doubt it would be easy to mount the entire E15 engine 'north-south'
let alone whether there is a rwd box to bolt straight up tot eh back of it.

What can I say I'm speechless. diesel to stop pinging now I have heard everything. What do you charge to
do engine rebuilds???? $50.00
Good luck.

I have used diesel and kerosene for years to stop ping. You just do not have an understanding of what octane is. The higher the octane, the slower your gasoline burns. Diesel slows down the
burn rate. Water slows down the burn rate. Alcohol slows down the burn rate. A lot of things slow down the burn rate. For sure diesel isnot the most desirable octane boost but it does work
for street driving. The higher your compression, the slower your fuel needs to burn.
There is a built in resister on the electronic coils that will work on the point distributors. I used one for years with my stock 1200. It internally reduces the line voltage same as the
external resister reduces the line voltage to the coil. Yes the electronic distributor does work better than points in the long run but points are very reliable when replaced and maintained
properly. Do not confuse the jobs of the coils and distributors. The electronics and the points do the same thing, they are on-off switches for voltage going to the coil. I used a BLUE STREAK
110,000 volt coil for years with points. I also used it with the electronic distributor with equal results.

I thought the issue with octane and high compression was not of slowing the burn rate down but stopping the fuel self igniting in an uncontrolled fashion from the heat of the pressure. Isn't
that how diesel combusts, from the heat of the compression and a little help from the glow plug. I thought the high octane fuel was more stable at higher pressures (higher flash point)and
that water and alcohol stopped pinging by cooling the charge and changing its density. I guess I could liken the cooling effect to slowing down the burn but its not really the way I have
ever thought of it.
I guess I have never thought of diesel because I think of it as having poor or slow as you say combustion properties.
It doesn't actually harm power then? All else being equal. I presume it would still be better for power to use octane booster, my impression off ther diesel is that it has a retarding effect
like on ignition which would then reduce power??? or am I on the wrong track.

hmmm Do you have understanding of what octane is? Diesel has much more heptane than normal gas, more octane increase burning rate thus more power, but in case of more power -> more work -> higher temperatures, and in case you increase the temp it is possible to have the mix burnt itself either with no spark, putting those liguids you say you change the whole chemical chain of the gas making more heptanes than octane so you get less power thus reducing the temp inside the cylinders, so less power. Also you mentioned the kerosene, kerosone much more octanes that means you set the current gas to be able to resist in burning itself at hight temps but you need much more air to have it in proper burning level, I say all these bcs many people use their theory more than reading the reality, theories quite a lot

About coils and points I think that you cannot feel the difference in power, its a whole science cannot be mentioned in this small window, sorry If I was that much ungry at you:) but the truth must be told:)

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by mareospeedwagon on 2001/3/8 9:33:00

I have used diesel and kerosene for years to stop ping. You just do not have an understanding of what octane is. The higher the octane, the slower your gasoline burns. Diesel slows down the
burn rate. Water slows down the burn rate. Alcohol slows down the burn rate. A lot of things slow down the burn rate. For sure diesel isnot the most desirable octane boost but it does work
for street driving. The higher your compression, the slower your fuel needs to burn.
There is a built in resister on the electronic coils that will work on the point distributors. I used one for years with my stock 1200. It internally reduces the line voltage same as the
external resister reduces the line voltage to the coil. Yes the electronic distributor does work better than points in the long run but points are very reliable when replaced and maintained
properly. Do not confuse the jobs of the coils and distributors. The electronics and the points do the same thing, they are on-off switches for voltage going to the coil. I used a BLUE STREAK
110,000 volt coil for years with points. I also used it with the electronic distributor with equal results

Thanks Dr. Nitox. Yes, octane is a complex subject. My learning came from the 1930s. Theory hasn't changed much since then but as you rightly point out, practice has changed quite a bit.

Quote:I think he was talking about the Octane rating which is a measure of resistance to premature detonation.

Fuel with a higher octane rating burns less easily ... BUT can take more compression. So if you up the compression ratio, you can get more power out of it. reference: Octane rating encyclopedia article.

Of course, we shouldn't worry about any of this unless our car is properly tuned and still "pinging" (pinking). Then a fuel with higher octane rating should be helpful.

Interestingly, our least expensive "87 octane" gasoline in the United States, measured under the (R+M)/2 method, is equivalent to "91 Octane" gasoline sold in Europe (RON rating). I think Australia uses the RON rating as well.

Yes, I can tell the difference between electronic ignition and points. Just wait about a year and you'll know the difference as the points willl wear out but the electronic setup keeps going like new.

Some of the racers say they can tell the difference right away at high RPM, and even Nissan didn't trust the normal single-point distributor for the 6,400 RPM GX engine.