there's a trick of sorts - if you route the vac advance hose to a large 'ball' then to the dizzy, it acts as a bit of a damper and prevents the mechanism fluttering. Alternately you can run a small balance tube from all runners. This won't be enough to alter carb calibration, but can similarly smooth out the vac signal to the dizzy

dissy is not using vacuum advance, 12degree's at idle, 34degrees all in by 3300rpm

So you didn't modify the dizzy and it is advancing correctly without any vacuum. Reason why I am asking is I thought that the distributor needs to be re-calibrated to work correctly with sidedrafts w.r.t advancing.

I am also running a entry level Pertronic ignitor and also thought that you can't run a high energy coil through it.
So you are running one without damaging the ignitor module?

Through reading this whole thread I saw you also came to the conclusion that RSA is a f$%^up country when it comes to modifying engine components. I also found out the hard way with some stuff I did in the past. Now I am either doing it myself or standing with and supervising when it is being done by someone else.

No you don't 'need' to recalibrate the distributor. It'll run OK as is, just retard it enough to avoid pinging. Recalibration is done to optimise the power.

Several club members have reported rev limits due to the carburetor settings. I'd be looking there.

GXman,

If you run a massive cam and dont rework the dissy youll only see about 50% of the true benefit, I went and got a dissy from a scrap yard, removed the vacuum advance and limited the rotation of the counter weights to limit the amount of advance (so i could run much higher timing at idle yet not over shoot the 32-36 range you want to be in up top) I then slowely added weight onto the countweights in the dissy till i had my full advance in where I wanted it... took me a few tries to do, would have taken 10 minutes with the right tools, springs and weights the differene is night and day!

You have to run a 1.6ohm ballast resistor if you want to run a hard core coil like the flamethrower 3 or the blaster SS like I do.

RSA is a stuff up for getting anything done, when I build my SR20's and RB's I actualy sit in the machine shop and watch them do the stuff I cant do at home (cnc line bore ectr) if you want it done right either diy or supervise, I have been to at least 9 machinests already just to find one that does work semi on part with my machinests i used in the USA when I was building cars there.

Was playing with my jetting this evening, 9000rpm clean, can not wait for the next track day!