reverse eye, i presume it is almost like flipping the main blade over.
What I mean, instead of the blade hanging from the eye, the blade sits on top of the eye.

Trying to get the picture here.

Or do I have it completely wrong here.

That is also how I understand it. I might sound stupid but how will this help with axle tramping?

It's a good question, as it didn't make sense to me either. This diagram attempts to explain it:


The Datsun Competition setup is for a dedicated track car:


Competition Anti-Tramp Setup


The tradition street/track setup is like this:


Street/Dragstrip Setup
This is like the other photos, except the front is not solidly mounted to the chassis. It doesn't interfere with normal suspension unless wind-up occurs. Plus it has a little "play" so that it bites down to help traction.

I fitted solid bushes and turned the bottom leaf spring and put it on top like i showed you and i have know problem anymore

there is 3 basic designs i know of and the names are used fairly loosely
1)bar coming from bottom of spring saddle with a rubber snubber on the front that hits the spring
2)link from spring saddle to front spring mount as per 1200 comp susp manual
3)caltrac same at the rear but front has a bellcrank that pushes front of spring downwards
this should clarify things for you
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html
whatever you choose you will have to make yourself

My 1000 used to tramp so bad that she would skip across the road mid corner and scare the devil out of me.
I know what was causing it, It was my 42 year old springs, bushes, and shocks (nissan branded) , and 100+ rwkw.
I did some ringing around and it would cost $1k+ to replace all the offending parts (over $700.00 for springs?).
As I am a cheapskate I had to find an alternitive,
I looked into every type of traction, caltrak, slapper, lift, tramp rods, bars. I ended up building some slapper style bars, These items bolt to the base of your spring pack and extend forward to the base of the forward spring hanger,with an adjustable stop that pushes up into the bottom of the spring below the hanger.
They cost me about $20.00 and an afternoon of sparks.
On the road: I know why they are called slapper bars, but with some tinkering with the stop levels and materials i have completly eliminated all signs of tramp. And they seem to "lift" the front of the car under heavy acceleration (pushing the rear wheels into the ground) win/win/win.

I`m not sure if fitting a "load" bar to the bottom of your spring pack might not also help?

i jusst started making my own to suit my 1k
materials im using
27mm O.D, 25mm I.D, 2mm wall thickness mild steel pipe x 2 lengths at 700mm long which is plenty for a 1000 or 1200 (i got extra to be able to cut it down)
2 x right hand thread metric male rose joints at 14mm
2 x left hand thread metric male rose joints at 14mm
4 x right hand thread nuts
4 left hand thread nuts
this is just for the bars i havent got around to making up the brackets as i still havent finished the bars cause im waiting on the left hand thread nuts
but heres what i go up to
i lathed down the 2 right hand nuts using a long bolt and threaded them to the end so they wouldnt move while lathing. i then took them down to 25mm then pushed them into the bar 5mm (they are 10mm thick) then got them square welded them up then lathed the end down nice and smoothi then used the other 2 nuts as locking nuts the other end is the same you just have to get the measurement of the total length cut it the weld it up
heres a pic of the style of rose joint im using i got them at my local bearing place $51 for all 4

my ute has them and id have to admit they really do make the back end very ridgid...only thing is they rattle when cruising from hitting little bumps in the road but other then that for the cheap price they are, if you have a fair bit of rwhp id get them for reasurance....my 2 cents

and for those who dont understand what a reverse eye is
with your standard springs both eyes loop up
if you do a reverse eye on the front eye and have it loop down
doing this helps prevent axle tramp ca18det_man had this setup on his race car and never ran anti tramp bars
just food for thought

I have just put a R31 lsd diff into my ca18det ute and I took her for a test drive this morning and the axel tramps pretty bad... Have never had this happen before, but previously i only had a standard open wheeler ute diff in it... Now it tramps pretty bad and that is with some very worn tyres on the rear, would hate to see it when it has some decent rubber under it. So ill have to make up some anti tramp bars now, and the information so far has been great!