What a busy few weeks getting the Ute in order.
On Saturday we have another gymkhana. Hope everything will be in order.

Just want to give all that provided me with tips and tricks some feedback.
Got the Datsun Comps spec on the flywheel, took the flywheel and a new pressure plate to the dude that does my machining, he got it down to 5.78kg, he also balanced the flywheel and new pressure plate for me, all machining and balancing for R350 bucks (53 AUD, is this a lot) in SA currency it is cheap.

Installed the A12GX head with worked ports and valves.
Fitted a 4-1 branch manifold, already had a 50mm Stainless Free flow System
HS4 Dual SU Carburetors, intake manifold ports matched to head intake ports
Fitted a electric fan, switch comes on at 85degrees, removed mechanical fan on waterpump
Had to purchase a new Temp Sensor, could not get the old one out of the A14 head.

Here comes the interesting bit, somewhere down the line, they changed the resistance on these sensors, from about 560ohm to about 360ohm at 16degrees.
This caused more than enough problems. All of a sudden the temp gauge needle climbed way more that it should.

We started it up, all was fine, no bolts, pistons or valves flew around, tuned the su’s. The electronic fan came on, everything working as it should.

Once on the road it was a different story, torque there is a lot of, it is clean, revs up nicely, pulls excellent from 2k rpm right thru to the limiter (currently at 7k rpm), there is not even signs that you are about to hit the limiter, this means all is working together, producing nice bottom down torque and decent top end power.

Then, all of a sudden the motor gets hot. After a day or two and enough swear words to make a sailor look like a beginner. We figured it out. Once on the road there is enough air traveling over the switch to cool it down and not switch the fan on. This caused me more time under the bonnet than needed. Obviously if the water gets way to hot pressure builds and want to escape somewhere, the place it picked was between cylinder 3 and 4 at the water ports on the intake manifold gasket. After taking it apart, I also noticed that the one exhaust manifold washer was pressing against a piece of welding. Grinded it down, reassembled the lot. Also re-fitted the old mechanical fan on the water pump to be on the safe side.

Took it for a drive, no issues what so ever anymore, the fan doesn’t even switch on after some heavy spinning and gymkhana practice.

Saturday we have our next race meeting and look forward to the added power and overall better A14-A12 inbreed.
Just hope I will be able to keep the wheel spin to a minimum, we are expecting rain also, and that sure as hell will not help.

Thanks a lot to all that helped and gave advice.

Good for you.
I have some questions though.
I also have a A12 flywheel I want to get lightened but I am struggling to figure out at what distance from the center of the flywheel the machinist would have to stop cutting.

The other thing. What make branch is it? Did it foul/hit anywhere? I am also in the process of maybe fitting a 4-1 extractor/branch. Did you think of getting a GX 4-2-1 extractor for the torque? I heard they give you a better, lower in the rev range torque curve. Something I would think you would enjoy/need in a ghymkhana.

I also fitted a electric fan to find that it struggles to bring down the temp when it kicks in. The car ran hotter than with the mechanical fan. What is your experience on this as I installed the mechanical fan back again. I am thinking of making the radiator hole bigger and fitting a 200SX aluminum radiator.

The Flywheel, the easiest I could figure it out was, if you look at the drawings, from the inner part, they provide you with a small radius value, on one of the sketches, they state never go below 12mm thickness. What I did is take the small radius added 12 to it. Any good machine shop will figure it out. I first went to Goth & Cooper - what a waste. The dude that done mine: his job is building racing cars, I showed him the drawing and told him go for it, and he went mad.


The Branch is a 4-1 TNT for the Nissan 1400 bakkie R896 incl Vat @ Masterparts . Each pipe on it is 38mm into a collector with a 3 bolt flange. Was thinking of the GX Extractor, but down in Cape Town they are scarce, "Hulle is hoender Tande". Currently it has enough torque, first want to see what it does, a complete new vehicle to learn.

So true on the fan side, also removed the mechanical fan, in the garage it works, temp goes up, fan kick in and bring it down, fan switch of. On the road other story. Put the mechanical fan back for the time being. Currently the fan switch is in the lower radiator pipe. Want to move it to the top pipe and install a fan switch that kicks in @ around 70-75degrees. Also want to re core the radiator, maybe if possible add a core to it. Will get it sorted, just money the issue.

And people please do not kill me for mentioning a non Datsun Vehicle.
(We have another vehicle that we race with in the form of a Ford Escort Mark II. We fitted a 2.0Lt Zetec motor to it, nice torgue motor.) - Sorry, sorry
This thing has a radiator with steel tanks, took it in and had it re core, they placed a 3 core core in it. Standard it is only 2 core core. It works beautiful with only a electrical fan.

Odd, Goch and Cooper are usualy pretty good, they make the best A-series cam grinds here.

If you two are using Midas/Autozone special fans thats why your having problems, they have about 100cfm, not enough to cool a lawnmower, I ran a single spal 10" and it was MORE than enough for my built A15, I now run twin 8" spal's for the 3 hour enduro racing and no problems at all temp wise.

TNT header is ok, needs some clean up but be warned, it doesnt play nice with the rowland intake mani for dual 40's (GX man i know your thinking about it so be warned)

Quote:
I see you noticed that I am gathering information where ever I can for the planned conversion.

There is another guy on the Forum (Clive) he uses I think mouse or something's header. He also said he needed to make small mods for it to fit with the Duel DCOE manifold. Seems it's a common problem.

Yes, I am using the Midas/Autozone 12" fan. I got it for free.
The thing is I am still running the normal small 1200 radiator. Just a brand new 3 core installed. It is not aluminum. Racetech I presume is running the 1400 aluminum radiator which I feel is not designed to work effectively with a electric fan as it is still small. That is why I am thinking of SX which is a bit bigger and works well for the CA in 1200 guys.

@racetech
It is better to install the temp sensor in the top hose coming out of the head. That is what I did. I used a 1400 Datsun Pulsar's sensor which kicks in at 88C and switches off at 81C. Through research I found out that the 1400 Pulsar motor is actually a A14 motor just turned 90 degrees to pull the FWD gearbox.

Rezlo, is there a local SA supplier for these fans that I can find out how many arms and legs will be needed to purchase one. Otherwise I must start looking at a genuine fan at some scrapyard.

GXman, that will be the next steps. For the time being I will keep to the mechanical fan until I can get a better fan and move and replace the fan switch. But But, I have installed a manual switch to, the plan is to switch it manually on just before a run or if I see things are heating up.

Currently using a switch that switches on 85C.
Apparently you also get a pulsar switch that comes on at 75C, the one I'm after.
But my biggest issue is the location, it needs to be in the top hose.

Also had to work on the branch before the Dual SU intake and the branch worked together. But in my opinion it was marginal, 10 minutes of grinding and fitting over and over and all is good.

Racetech, I'm running pretty much the same level of tune you are and is a pretty good all around set up....must be 30% up from the stock power. (I really need to get the car on a dyno)

As for gauges doing funky things, I have a set of VDO guages with what I thought were the right sensors BUT the car would come up to temp then the guage would spike then back down to normal all in a 3 minute span. My Ford E250 van did this....reistor in the guage pack.

As for cooling fans, I don't run one at all and it's not an issue as mine is a track only car. (of course I forgot last friday and left it idling in the drive while I moved the trailer then remembered it has no fan.........fortunately it was only 180 F.

Tom

So I took the little Ute for a dyno yesterday.

My goals where: 60kW and I would be happy
65kW and I would be very happy.

This is the end results - speechless

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  Datsun A14 Dyno-A12GX Head 268Cam 4-1Branch E15 Dizzy.JPG (133.50 KB)

well done old champ