i know it's not a datsun but what do you guys think of them?
i can get one for a very go price, the only thing is it has a FixOrRepairDaily (ford) kent motor

cheers guys

I abso-freakin-lutely LOVE them!!!!!!!!!
I just finished reading Ron Champion's book, "Build Your Own Sportscar..." this morning. Now I'm just waiting for my "year end bonus" to arrive so I can order a Locost frame from Champion Motorcars. I'm going to use the A-14 with single side draft and "race cam #1" from Gil/Gilligan in mine. I can hardly wait!

Lotus 7's are great cars but I do like the idea of a 7 "kit" using A series engine gearbox and 1200 rearend. This is my plan for my Vintage 3/4 Midget Racer. In other words all the fun of open wheel car without the maintennance schedules. If you have a deal on a 7 - get it!!!

Tom

I'm building a locost, I've welded the frame up from square tubing, but if you got the $$ a fully welded frame is the way to go. I've got some parts from CMC in Georgia, USA and Steve there is great! I used a 1980 Corolla SW rear end and was thinking about using a MG midget 1275cc engine until I found a Nissan re-manufactured A12a for US$ 300. I'll probably get the same Hp out of either engine but the Nissan should last longer and I believe it is lighter!! I hope to come in around 1100 lbs, and if I can get 90 Hp I'll be very happy.

Since I'm trying to build a Lotus 7A replica I will be using a Lotus nose which is lower that a Locost's. I wanted a lower engine so nothing would peek out of the bonnet.

Dog

Dog - 90 HP is very reachable. Using mild cam , the bigger A14 Valves and down draft Weber 32/36 carb you should get right on 90 HP. Use 5 speed Nissan box if you can - the standard 4 speed ratios are rather wide.
Tom

If you can get a really truly Lotus 7, go for it.

Even if it is a Caterham or later replica, you can have more fun than you can dream about.

We built a replica 7 (which we still have) about 9 years ago and its great! It has an A14 bored to 1470, 2X 44mm Mikunis, 5 speed, Sunny diff. housing with 4.1 diff. It weighs about 430 Kg. and has about 130BHP. It accelerates like you wouldn't believe. We used gemini uprights and 1600 discs. They are not hard to make as there is absolutely no witchcraft to them.

To all those considering Locosts, I would advise you to look at the frame and suspension closely and measure them carefully. My opinion is that thet front suspension is a bit suss in that it is likely to have bump steer to a more than normal extent. This can be improved by moving some of the inboard suspension mounting points.

The other point is that if you make one according to the book, it is possible (and likely) that twisting and bending will
occur during welding. The best way to make any of these cars is by using a jig made from 50 X 50 x 4mm Angle.

If you would like more details, send me a PM

StewMck.

On this topic of Nissan engines in lightweight cars, at Shasta this past summer was a "bug eyed Sprite" race car with an A14 engine. The car was sooo small! I think he said it weighed 1200 lbs.

Low weight, good handling and reliability is the secret of the Datsun 1200. With lower weight, those 7s must be fantastic to drive!

I used 14 gage steel (?mm) 25mm x 25mm square tubing instead of the 16 gage the book recommended. I am using TR Spitfire uprights and a MGS steering rack. I believe that if I place the steering rack even with the attachmant points at the spindle that there should be little bump steer. I'm using GAX coil over shocks from the UK.

dog

You're on the right track. Just check that the distance between ball joints on the ends of the rack and the measurement between the inboard pivots of the lower wishbone are as close to the same as possible. (I hope this is clear???)

We used 16 and 18 Ga. 25mm and 20mm square section tube and haven't found any trouble.

If in doubt, go for the lightest!

The best part of all of this is that people are building this type of car. More strength to you.