Simon, Ill be happy to do a few. Anyone else interested in a 60 or 63 series box from the L series? They are lighter than the 71 series by 10-15kgs, strong well not really but enough for a B10 and in racing they didnt seem to be too bad. Otherwise there is a closer (not exactly close) ratio box from Mazda 929 which is nice and put behind NA 13b rotaries handling 10000rpm and 200hp+. Few boxes can handle high rpm changes and this box does. Probably a much better option.

Dattro frog the box you are talking about is the K series and although more common than
the much better T series (t series orignially for the T series and last used on the G engines eg 4age) its unitary housing is difficult to tackle its quite beefy yet the K box
could only handle a mild a15. K engines are also on a slant so could present another issue.
The T50 is a much better box.

The 2 different mazda boxes, the one on the right is the one used on a 929 the one on the left is the commercial ute box but also used in turbo rotaries.
What could be good with the box on the right is the casting circle right around it could be and area easy to cut for reference? what do you think Simon?

Attach file:

---

  mazda trans.jpg (30.63 KB)

Just out of interest, the input shaft spigot size on the A - series box and Getrag are both 12mm.

very nice info Gary.

Thanks Lemonhead for the shaft info. The Getrag box would be easier, cheaper and stronger than most other options to make fit. Im not sure about the gearbox purchase price?
I understand that they are heavier and perhaps not that common tho.

D, with the bellhousing diameter. It would be hard to know until its machined nearly to the right length to weld.
I do like the Mazda comercial/rotary option but they have a short input shaft. this stops us being able to use the auto bellhousing and adaptor plate method.

Can you buy close ratio gearsets for the 265? Getrag box? (I`ll do a search too)
This way a cheapish box is available for road use and there are options for the racer too.

Is this a box that would be likely to turn up at Pick a Part?

BTW, i have the bits for the welder now.

I have to say that the BMW box is the easiest one to find at the moment
The W series is snatched as soon as its in
The T5 doesnt usually make the wrecking yard
The T50 is as rare as a sillycar
Leaving the only option a Getrag or the heavy stumpy.
The BMW box is only 92aud at PAP on normal days and 46 this week.

Simon let me know which day is possible.
Tomorrow going to PAP in the Dandys.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do ... &mospid=47231&hg=23&fg=15

http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~amh ... arbox_ratios_compared.htm

Just got back from PAP - nothing around at all for BMW, BW and W series :(

Simon are you going for the v8 T5 or can you get away with the t5
from the 6 cylinder? I think this is the best box as 2.95 is avail
from factory models. However I would like the front position shifter
model from the Chevy s10, otherwise I have to change gears in the boot
of my b10.

The Getrag box with the nice ratios (1:1 top gear - the dogleg shift) is rare as rocking horse doodoo and usually gets at least $1000 as a second hand, unless you're incredibly lucky. All the others have lousy ratios - but they're not that hard to find, nor that expensive.

T5...Sounds like i`ll have to supply steering column and pedal extensions with it!
I might do a 71B box cut and shut tommorow. I`ll have a measure anyway.

Its a big job to do a cut and shut. I have to spend a couple of hours on the milling machine then bolt the halves to an old "A" block. Then turn up a bar that bolts into the main bearing tunnel and extends out to the input bearing groove in the bellbousing to keep it aligned. The the engine block has to be pre heated for an hour before welding for 2 hours!

So, about 6 hours all up and a lot of gas and welding rods. Probably about $300.

This is why the adaptor plate option would be easier and cheeper. About $200. at a guess after the first one has been made. I might be able to get them done on CNC which could cut costs more.



Either way the clutch, thrust bearing and fork, tailshaft and x-member still have to be sorted.

The Dellow kit for the T50 is looking more like reasonable value at $1100.

I cant suggest anything except that the 71B is good for its so common, blow one up
they are a dime a dozen. The T5 has the better ratios on the v8 but the 6 cyl
is the same as the 71b in first but at the same weight a better box and cheap
2.95 v8 first gear available locally. The shift action the T5 is nice and crisp
with short shift kits avail. The 71B boxes dont seem to be nice shifting boxes
but beggers cant be choosers and its still a good box for the masses of Datholics.

Simon, Pardon my ignorance but are you saying you need both the block and chopped
front gbox housing section at the right temp so there is no alignment issues?
If so Im for the adapter plate all the way, not for cost but for the fact that
its better for the datsun community to have a piece of plate rather than sending
you the front of the box, an auto bellhousing and your time (which is in short supply
just like anyone else). Of course unless we can get the final one sent off for sand
casting for a group buy of some sort.
An adapter plate to an A series would be awesome as 71B boxes usually end up scrapped.

The way things are going though the T5 and tremecs are ruling most conversions worldwide.
Im sure the Morris Minor crowd will also see the light.

heres a shot of the Yota K, T and W steel case boxes.
Back to Datofrogs comment could the K be used? the later ones
have matching spline to the T series from ta22 and t18 but not
the 22 spline ae series.

http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.ph ... Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes

I`d be using a 56a Manual bellhousing section, not the auto bellhousing for a cut and shut job. The block is for holding the bellhousing square and to stop shrinkage. The block is heated as it has the greatest mass, the heat transfers into the belhousing for pre heating purposes. If you try to weld something like this without full preheating it can/does crack along the weld as you are welding. The welded bellhousing has to be left on the block until fully cooled other wise it will shrink and will not go back on the block. Once cooled it has to be remachined.

A late model T5 6Cyl box would be a reasonable start for a conversion. I`d still need to know the input shaft total length from the bellhousing flange to know if it would work.
D, If you find one on one your PAP tours let me know i`ll pay you to pull it out.

I might be able to make a machine that can grind the input shafts while in position. Im not sure how much it would cost to get them done elsewhere. Otherwise we could set the gearbox back a bit and put a spigot bush in the flywheel and not modify the input shaft.

Those corolla folk are bloody lucky!!