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Re: The super strong A-series... FAIL
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Bart some good point if the ca16de rod is already 140 gsm heavier.
Ive found a ca16de with 145,000klms and it would be too risky to
use the rods it has as it was thrashed by some young kid.
Do you know if Nissan Still stocks them?
I knew the DE and DET have the same rods but I call them DET rods
to stop people recommending turbo rods after I mention DE rods.
I like the Euro head you scored, you peeps in NZ get the best bits!

Edit I repeat you guys in NZ get the best bits!!!
Also would love the Euro ca18de heads you guys get there!

Posted on: 2010/5/27 0:10

Edited by D on 2010/12/10 21:48:06
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Re: The super strong A-series... FAIL
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Thanks! We did get a few goodies.

I wouldn't fret none about the work those Ca16 rods have done. How many kms do you think the average A15 rod has done? For starters, they run from new untill the bores are so worn that the pistons go up and down sideways, and then they can be reused over and over again. The rods in my blown A15 would have scary kms on them, albeit they've been prepped and had ARP bolts thrown in too.
I scored My CA16 rods for free. A mate bought one for $50 to scavange the cams out of for his CA18det 510, and he just gave the rest to me.
I asked the mate who gave me the ca16 rods if I could borrow a ca18det rod to weigh, but he doesn't have any spare atm. I have a set that are within reach, (if you saw my shed you'd understand) but the caps are in a box of CA parts, under a mountain of Charger parts.

PS, sorry about the hijack Rezlo.

Posted on: 2010/5/27 6:59
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Re: The super strong A-series... FAIL
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Why put heavier rods in when the A15 ones are obviously up to the job? The leaky weber caused the rod to bend, not that the rods are too weak? A CA18DET would probably do the same thing in that situation wouldn't it?

Posted on: 2010/5/27 8:08
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Re: The super strong A-series... FAIL
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Yeah, it probably would Morgan. Did I mention that I have a turbo build planned later on? All my enthusiasm about conrod stems from wanting to build a motor a cam cram full of boost, and rev the daylights out of. Plus Dodgeman once posted a pic of a an A series rod where the small end journal parted company with the beam of the rod. I bent a rod once, but the pistons had disintergrated 1st.

Posted on: 2010/5/27 10:06
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Re: The super strong A-series... FAIL
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Quote:

Rezlo wrote:
Either way, im going to the A14 block and crank for 2011 rules, with a longer rod and shorter stroke = better in my opinion, maybe not for street and bottom end torque but at 8000rpm having less rod angle = win
Ummmmm, need a little clarification here.
You will be using the A14 block [taller deck height & bigger bore, this can only be good] & the A14 crank [77mm stroke, also good]
So where does the shorter stroke come in? Shorter than what?

If you use a longer rod, you will need a piston with a shorter deck height, possibly an A15 piston, but where will you source the longer rod?

Posted on: 2010/5/27 14:00
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Re: The super strong A-series... FAIL
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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I think he means shorter stroke, (with the A14) and better rod to stroke ratio. While the rods aren't longer as such, they're longer when compared to the shorter stroke.

Posted on: 2010/5/28 6:53
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Re: The super strong A-series... FAIL
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Not sure if this is really on the same track, but the old race engine builder from Melbourne, who was selling his E-series/A series combo on eBay a while back (earlier this year) used to praise the shorter rod on the A14 crank combination.

Obviously it entailed a little more work then that but he insisted this were an impressive street & power combination, especially with some basic/mild lightening of the crank & flywheel. I'm sure he used the same combination on his race engines.

All his gear was sold (due to changes in race regulations) including the E/A-Series Motor, several heads [oval + GX], boxes of cranks, pistons rods, new parts, old parts etc for a mere AU$750.00.

Posted on: 2010/5/28 7:08
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Re: The super strong A-series... FAIL
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Tell me about it, 750aud when he wanted to sell me the e/a15 hybrid alone for 4 grand.
I kindly said no but interested if halve of that. Not anymore though.
Just wished the new owner revealed the engine to our community to help us in case we
decided to go this way. Maybe the new owner is a speedway racer himself hence the secrecy.

The ca16de rod is interesting as some of us want to boot the A so the stock prepped rods
are too risky especially if Ca rods are cheap or free :) Albeit heavy, they can be lightened.

The rod stroke ratio of the a14 in the a12 block favors street conditions not peak rpm
but as all manufacturers have been doing of late thanks to Honda which is way below 1.55
rod stroke ratios. Nissan has the world record in modern engines with 1.43 in the torque
monster qr25de. Some sentra owners are making 200hp with free flowing exhaust only.

Yet all this modern complicated engines are so aesthetically ugly and complicated that
it makes me love the A more and more each day.

Posted on: 2010/5/28 10:24
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Re: The super strong A-series... FAIL
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Getting off topic a bit now, but your last post reminded me D that another mate of mine gave me a set of prepped for full floating pin A12 rods, with the small ends opened up to 19mm. I did read somewhere that longer rods were less critical on forced and nitrous'd motors. (Although, personally I have a preference for the longer rod to shorter stroke combos)

Posted on: 2010/5/28 11:46
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Re: The super strong A-series... FAIL
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Quote:

Dodgeman wrote:
Ummmmm, need a little clarification here.
You will be using the A14 block [taller deck height & bigger bore, this can only be good] & the A14 crank [77mm stroke, also good]
So where does the shorter stroke come in? Shorter than what?


Coming from an A15 and going to an A14 = Shorter stroke & better rod angle

The only reason my car bent the rod was a small hydro as mentioned. If these rods that are ballanced and fitted with ARP's can survive this long at 135hp+ and 8000rpm+ then i dont see the point in putting heavier units in, not for my NA needs anyways

Posted on: 2010/5/28 20:52

Edited by Rezlo on 2010/5/28 21:07:27
Edited by Rezlo on 2010/5/29 10:31:04
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