clyons i used your method of bleeding the brakes again and is definatly the way to do it though i still have the same problem no brake pressure until i pump the pedal. i found a master cylinder for about $100 from the states so just wondering is that a fair price. i rang repco and they wanted to screw me like 300 bucks

Pump up the pressure and hold your foot down on the pedal. Does it slowly go down as you keep pressure on it?

it holds pressure but it still takes a few pumps to get any pressure.
i feel their is air in there somewhere i might bench bleed the master cylinder to see if that works

So i just pulled the master cylinder off and found its leaking fluid where the rear brake line connects to it. does this mean my master cylinder is broken

Mate you've still got an air pocket in there then (if it's holding pressure).

I flushed through a lot of fluid, just kept re-using it (once it was clean) so don;t be too conservative. If the air bubble is at the top you have to flush it out all the way along the line. Every time you pause or stop the air bubble will rise to the highest point again, putting you back to square one, so up the dosage maybe.

I though it was my master, pulled it down and it sealed well when I had it in the sink cleaning it out with water.

When I put it back in I could get pressure after about 7 pumps and it would hold pressure if I held my foot on the pedal. I then bled all the lines with the jar/bottle whatever and it worked a treat.

Check that your rear drum adjusters are not frozen thats the problem I had, found out after bleeding the brakes about 12 times! :(

If it pumps up rock hard then I don't think there is much air in there and it is more likely an adjustment problem. If it is spongy then most likely air in the system.

Also be aware with an old master cylinder it has only been moving through a limited amount of it's travel with a system bled and working,when you then replace say a wheel cylinder at it goes full stroke pumping the brakes often a master cylinder that worked OK will fail because of a wear lip in the cylinder is passed over by the seals damaging the seals in the process,proir to that the seals never travelled over the lip and so were not damaged.
In that case you can use the Gravity bleeding method,you take a clean 600ML coke bottle fill it with brake fluid you can then quickly turn it upside down with the opening in the master cylinder reservoir and it will keep the fluid topped up without overflowing as it is below the fluid level,then just open the bleed valve no pumping required and it will bleed itself thanks to the assistance of gravity and the pressure difference between the height of the master cylinder and the lower position of the wheel cylinders.

yer although as said before my master cylinder is leaking where the rear brake line connects to it so thats why i had air in the system. sussing out prices on rebuild kits and new master cylinders. i put like 3 bottles of brake fluid through the #OOPS#er and still didnt work so atleast i have found fault with something and can get it fixed

if anyone is interest a new set of seals cost me about $40 and i was quoted for $120 for a new master cylinder that would bolt straight on.i bought the seals so ill give it the DIY approach thanks for help

After you have kitted the master ect, start the bleeding process from offside rear - Drvside rear - Offside Front finish on Drvside Front. Just fitted SS braided lines to my corolla. Cost about $60 a wheel, made all the diference though.