About time I put up some info of my Sunny.

Its pretty much your run of the mill 1979 Datsun Sunny currently in Granny spec apart from...

Extractors
2" Exhaust
Electric Distributor
Quad Motor Bike Carbs
Custom air box

Interior is in great nick and every thing works on the car (beside fan switch - only works full speed) and the clock. Will fix them once I have the dash out.

No rust on body, original paint and wheels.

The carbs are Mikuni BS34's using manifolds/air box I made. Having a 34mm bore they have the same cross sectional area as the stock carb but more flow because they don't have all sorts of crap in the bore - plus there's four of them. Being CV of a function they perform great, have good response and are very street able.

My plans for the car now is to drive it till I blow it up some how. I did a vacuum test today and I got a steady needle but a little low on vacuum saying late ignition timing (however, ignition timing actually correct) meaning I'm low on compression I guess - rings are a bit tired. So once I'm ready I'll pull the motor and reco the gearbox Plus do a worked NA build.

Hi Comp Pistons
Camshaft
Lighten Pulley (smaller dia. too), flywheel, rods, crank, push rods, Ali. retainers, Ali. rockers
Knife edge crank + chamfer/tear drop oil holes
Polish valves, rods, crank, combustion chamber, exhaust ports (and grit blast inlet port + tracts)
3 angle valve grind
Springs
Larger sump
Oil cooler
Bigger radiator
Adjustable timing sprocket
Port head
New rings, seals and bearings
New oil/fuel pump/water pump
And more stuff once I remember it...

Here's some pics and a Video (would be nice to embed it but I don't know how).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ebgLYcjkJc

I just love the ITB intake sound - despite somewhat muffled from the air filter and whizzing fan. The exhaust note is pretty good for a $50 muffler and the decel after the rev sounds cool.

Pics:

http://img228.imageshack.us/f/imgp0319w.jpg/
http://img706.imageshack.us/f/imgp0320p.jpg/
http://img717.imageshack.us/f/imgp0321w.jpg/
http://img36.imageshack.us/f/imgp0322i.jpg/
http://img43.imageshack.us/f/imgp0323m.jpg/
http://img15.imageshack.us/f/imgp0324t.jpg/
http://img43.imageshack.us/f/imgp0326z.jpg/

Nice job,

Wow that's awesome, thanks for that - it was hard enough for me to upload a video and pics with my 8kbps internet lol (its slowed down now).

that a nice carb setup and im lovin the intake. 2 thumbs up!!!!

I was going to get separate K&N's for each carb but at $80 EACH! it just wasn't worth it - plus my "airbox" and brace support the carbs more.

All I need is a bonnet scoop (bug catcher lol) just above the pod filter.

Nice work there.....Mark. The welds look clean & the layout looks simple & uncomplicated, something that's much harder to achieve than busy & complex. I'd suggest a larger plenum for the air cleaner, just a larger diameter piece of pipe, & some hose clamps on the vaccum lines for the booster. Also, there's those wires going down the left of the engine & around the front. They're for the pollution crap you've done away with & some of them have 12 volts with the ignition on. I'd recommend taping all the exposed ends with some insulation tape or that stuff that shrinks when you heat it that they use on electrical connections. I've had these sorts of things short out on the block or extractors & stop the car, usually at night somewhere miles from anything. You could roll them back & hide them under the windscreen wiper on the left hand side. And finally, about the heater fan switch only working on full speed. This is a common Sunny problem & a simple fix. Where the power wires from the fan switch go into the heater body, there's a plastic plate that will pop out with a flat bladed screwdriver. The wires connect to this plate. On the other side of this plate there's some coiled wires. These are the resistor wires that changed the voltage that the heater fan receives. These are connected at one end by a plastic nut & bolt, which has usually broken. Just get another nut & bolt, I think it's a 5 mm size, & attach the bolt to the coiled wires & the brass connector. This will give power to the other 2 speeds on the switch.

That's one of my main considerations when making stuff - it has to be clean and simple yet work better than the original object and still allow the same degree if not easier access to other parts/servicing the engine/installation - which I believe this is as I can take the rocker cover off with out the stock air box in the way, the idle fuel screws are easy to access, idle speed can be set with your hand (thumb screw) and best of all the car hasn't lost any driveability.

I never though about the those wires lol. I better put a multimeter to them and see what ones have 12 volts and then sort them out a bit neater than hanging there. I was going to roll them back and hide them but it also has the water temp sender wire in there too. Secondly do you know what the sensor is in the head that sits just in front on cylinder No. 1's exhaust port as seen in picture No. 2.

Also does that resistor sit behind the dash (near/in the switch) or near the fan box?

Ok I had look and I saw what looked like a removable panel for the plug - wasn't sure so I removed the fan and felt behind and there were a couple resistor coils (one loose) and I knew that must have been it. I pulled it out and yep - one bolt+nut fell off and left connection free.

I put a new bolt with a lock nut on and it works!

Makes you wonder though - why crimp two of the connections and then bolt the third on on?

Also, the water temp sensor wire is in another harness so I wound back that emissions harness (wasn't actually connected to anything) and cable tied it behind the wiper motor - looks neater now. So once again thanks for the pointers.

Just gotta machine up a blanking plug for that unused sensor (it was used but the wires broke off so I faced it off in a lathe to clean it up.)

The temp sensor with the broken off wires is part of the vaccum advance cut off system. What Nissan did was put a switch in the transmission like a reversing light switch. This is called the top gear switch, & closes when the car is in 4th. If the car was in 1st,2nd or 3rd, the vaccum advance to the distributor was stopped, & when the top gear switch cut in, you got vaccum advance. However, there appears to be a temp sensor that allowed vaccum advance below a certain temperature, & that's what the sender at the front of the head is. I just put a vaccum hose straight from the carby to the distributor & bypassed the whole thing. I've used this opening for after market temperature guage senders when I wanted to keep the standard guage as a quick reference & the aftermarket guage for details. I'm now thinking about using the opening to fit an on/off switch for an aftermarket control system for an electric fan. The thread would probably fit the sender from an N12 Pulsar, but I don't think there's enough room in the head for the back half of the sender. Any bolt supplier should be able to get you a blanking plug, just take the sender along with you so they can get the right thread size & pitch.

Hmm, makes sense I guess - however when I first got the car the vacuum advance from the distributor was piped straight to the ported vacuum port on the carb (bypassed the solenoid).

Anyway at least I know its nothing too important in my case and I'll get a blanking plug if I can unscrew the damn thing lol - might have to try when the engine is warm to unscrew it.