Well done on taking up the challenge! There are plenty of great people on here to help with things as you go along. And some vey good racers aswell (hopefully me too one day).

Ive had some fantastic help and advice from 1200.com members from all round the world during my U2lts IP build.

Are you sure you want to compete for outright? I think the 1200 would be more competative in under 2lts guise. Especially after seeing Tony Wallis`s lap record get smashed by nearly 3 seconds at Sandown a short time back!

The short tight tracks like Malala and Winton will still be ok for turbo cars.

What it the Under 2lts lap record at Malala like compared to overs?

Good luck and have fun!

Thanks for the replies, definitely got my head around the rule book and yes, I have the standard dash to put back in.

Working from the top, and not wanting to start any arguments (that is NOT what this thread is for), I'd like to very quickly point out 2 cars in particular before moving on and not discussing it further.

The first;

- Tony Wallis
- Mazda 808 Coupe
- 900kg
- BP18t
- 220rwks
- Current lap record holder at multiple tracks (including my home track of Mallala)

NOTE: Nationals at Mt Panorama - 51st to 1st in 10 laps - Race Winner. Take a look for yourself, - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=671HR2zKD3M (Ps. Where rotors, oh yeah, he just passed them like they were standing still??)

The second;

- Adam Allen
- Datsun 1200 coupe
- 850kg
- SR20DET
- 220rwkw
- Previous lap record holder (to Wallis) and 1:15s at Mallala

NOTE: My set up will be similar to this, as Mallala is a stop & go track (long straights and tight corners) the power to weight and acceleration of such a light car is enough to overcome needing more than low-200rwks. Keep in mind, the fastest rotor at Mallala is approximately 3 seconds off the pace - the fastest v8 is even further back. You CAN have a front running car with 220rwks, like LAGWAGON has mentioned, it is not about the power. Thanks for your input though, hope this changes your mind.

Moving on to SLIGHTLY better topics...

MCGEE, It's definitely better when it's cold, I was very surprised at how easily it came up with the same tools you used. Heating it up is definitely a messy job and the only up-side I can see, is that you can end up with a mint floor if you wanted (rather than having scratches from the tools)... but it's a race car so I'm not fussed.

Good luck with your build too, motivation is the hardest part. hence I started this thread to keep me moving.

SIKYNE, there are definitely some good people on here and I hope to get their advice when I need it, maybe be able to give some out too.

I wrote a long response and just deleted it, because we ALL have different opinions on what cars to build/race or how to build them, but this thread is about building an SR20DET Datsun 1200 Coupe for IPRA.. so let's all get back on track (including myself). Maybe someone should start a thread "WHAT to build for IPRA and HOW"??

Cheers, and good to see so many people interested in the topic!

Bowser,you will always have people giving opinions when using a public forum,especially if asked for.Now you will also find some of the folk on these forums are nongs yet some are very very knowledgable,i based my previous comments on what i have observed as a long term competitor and CAMS registered scrutineer and what is currently going on in the Qld.motor sport scene,so my opinion will not be changing any time soon.
At the end of the day especially where IPRA is concirned,he with the biggest wallet is the person who will be on the podium more often than not.
This is a real shame as the class was originally set up as a grass root level competition thats now all but out of control.

Cheers

Are you going to build most of it yourself?

Bowser, glad to have been helpful. As you have the engine already, the only other suggestion I can make is you make it a DE+T style tune up, where you raise the compression ratio to the N/A one, & use the restricted volume of air that more efficiently. Mark Alford (Datman55) has done this for the SR20 in his Sunny, & the videos his posted up on Ozdat & here show it's not short of HP. & as for removing sound deadening, I'd recommed doing it in the evening's when it's cold, get a bloody big wood chisel & keep it sharp, & even better, get somebody else to do it for you .

cool, gonna be a good build up. my car club just sent a newsletter around, showed one of the guys using dry ice to remove sound deadner.... too easy!

i did it the hard way and got about 5kg of sound deadner out of my coupe

hi bowser hp is great but you need to make it put the power down , i was involved with a 120y coupe in sydney that was originaly a south aus car, we converted the rear end to a 4 link with floating leaf springs and a 'A' arm lateral location set up with adjustable roll center mounting ,the current owner/driver was very happy with the "power down" improvment all this work gained . With all the front arm mounting points adjustable we can dial in as much or as little "anti squat" as we like , good shocks are also a must to get the most out of this mod.

I like the idea of high comp and boost on a 36mm restrictor very similar situation
to WRC rallye engines 225kw/300hp atw and 400+ lbs of torque.

sikyne:

I'll be doing the body work and paint (interior and exterior), installation of parts etc and all the fiddly bits and pieces.

Other workshops will be assisting with sponsorship of the car and they will be handling fabrication (of driveline parts), the conversion and other plumbing (radiator, exhaust, cooler). I'll get to that when we arrive.

The cage will be made by a local fabricator, I’ll get to that later too.

But I guess you can say that most of the hours on the actual car will be from me, while others will just be providing the parts.

b310gx:

Have definitely considered the NA+T set up though as mentioned, I'm not going in to any detail about the motor in this thread, that'll be my car's only "unknown" for others.

And yes, I have a large chisel just waiting to start on the deadener.

1200rallycar:

Thanks. Dry Ice definitely effective, but the way it has come out with just the use of chisel so far, I'll just keep going on like that. If the vehicle were any newer (more sound deadener and multiple levels of it in some areas), I'd definitely go with dry ice, for sure!! 5kg, it all counts!

wards:

Thanks for some input mate but were are not allowed to change the standard suspension arrangement in the car, it must stay as per factory. I would imagine that the 120Y is being used in SS (Sport Sedans) where you can pretty much do anything. I've already purchased the shocks but I'll get to that when the thread does. Cheers.