That would look so sick!!!
Especially if I can get one of the old ones made of brass or copper
and polish it up. SteamPunk here we come :)

Any idea if the inside is just an empty vessel?
Here are the diagrams from their PDF instructions

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looking at the diagram, it must have a dividing piston in it so the fire extinguisher idea wouldn't work. If it was a sealed cylinder its also unlikely that it would fill which blows my theory.

So for 150 usd I might as well buy it, however dont want to spend 75 usd for a manual lever
when perhaps the electronic switch would be best? however I cant tell if I need both switches
one for ignition and the other that senses the pressure level????
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/4234/Accusumps
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/im ... oads/11081_2269_large.jpg
or
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/333/Accusumps
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/images/large/CAN-24270.jpg

I don't know how many high mileage A series I've pulled down but none of them was worn to any great degree even well used and abused race engines.
Beware that the complexity you introduce does not compromise the reliability and simplicity of the datto. Your decision but if it feels good do it.
Better get a pre heater for the coolant and sump too while you're at it and a supercharger so you can push it all along.

its no more complex than running a standard heater by the looks of it.
A race engine doesnt see much stop and start compared to a road engine.
Sustained high rpms doesnt effect bearing life but lack of oil does
through oil starvation which is what this system seems to answer.
All the bearings ive seen in countless road engines have wear in the bearings
after 180K kms its a fact of life starting engines wears bearings.
The heading on my thread is clearly if someone has used one in an A series not
if it makes the A series more complex. There are countless ways to do that,
maybe those who are worried about it can start a thread on it

I'm with ddiesel - almost without exception you'll find engine life is a matter of when ring/bore seal drops below the point where oil consumption is increased to come close to fuel consumption. In a LOT of those cases the bearings are still in reasonable condition - in many cases just a crank linish (basically a polishing of the journals, and typically around 1 ten thousandth of an inch - 0.0001" is removed,
Obviously nobody is likely to re-use rod bearings even on a quick and nasty rebuild (main bearings are often easily able to be but again not many people would do this).. Point being, if they outlast the rings, and are gong to be replaced during the next rebuild anyway - what exactly is ths pre-oiler achieving??? It's a hammer without a nail in a sense. I'm not saying it does nothing, I'm just saying it does relatively so little that in practice it is not really worth it.

This being the case, it's pretty obvious that oiling at initial startup just isn't as bad as it seems. If the engine was left long enough for oil to completely drain from around bearings, you'd still find that the hardest hit surface would be the bore walls, and a pre-oiler won't be doing a darn thing to help that.

Realiatically, in practice, as long as you don't do what used to jokingly be called the Irish Tuneup or the Italian tuneup (or insert and group of people in that phrase, and to be fair I am part Irish) - as long as you don't immediately rev the heck out of it as soon as it starts, holding the revs high, as long as you don't do that, keeping the revs beloe say 1500rpm, for the first 5-10 seconds (or even if you do the idea of having the ignition kill switch so you can crank for 10 seconds before 'really' starting it - it's going to be fine.

About the only thing any of the oil accumumalator type devices can do - and it depends on their specific design. well - some of them can fill a cannister of 'reserve' oil that is spring loaded, and if the engine loses oil pressure, for a split second or so (perhaps a massively hard corner with great grip that has the oil move away from the pickup in the sump) then the spring will push oil back out of the accumulator and into the engine. Of if the oil pump breaks it can supply oil for about 3-4 seconds (lower pressure than the oil pump but oil supplied nonetheless) due to oil pump trouble during a race, you might have enough time to shut the engine down and avoid an even bigger rebuild job....

MY 2c on this is probably cheaper and better option would be twofold - are there oil filters with anti-drainback valves available for these engines (I've never actually looked at the filters too closely when swapping them during oil changes. The other thing? this one will break the bank - they go for around $30 last I checked (and I don't know if there is one to specifically suit the datto but I would expect there would be as most oil pressure senders are one or two thread types across most engines) - anyway the device is simply a replacement oil pressure warning light sender. You could of course run a guage that shows exact oil presure, but not everyone keeps checking them on a street car. Anyway, this replacement warning light sender is different. The std ones will turn on the light if oil pressure drops to around 5psi or so. Obviously this would be low enough to do damage at moderately high rpms. So you replace the sender with one that switches at anything below around 20-25 psi that's a little low for peak rpm, but you typically find that it'll only drop below that at peak rpm if there is a problem with the oil system - i.e. if it drops below its optimal output (i.e. around 50-60psi is enough for peak rpm on 99% of a-series out there)by 10psi, it'll probably drop all the way below 25 or so if there is a genuine issue with the oiling system, so this revised idiot light sender - if it comes on whilst you are giving it a bit of a hard run, stop the engine.

My ford xp had one of those warning lights every time I started the engine and turn corners hard
The oil pressure light on the dash was replaced with a higher Wattage one and made me drive the
boat as little more careful :) It eventually threw a rod chasing a datsun through some bends!
Oh well the ol coupe looked good for an 19 year old chasing girls.

The oil accumulator seems worth it still in my eyes. I still prefer to wear out rings than
have worn bearings. That way I can just hone the cylinders once every 350,000-400.000 kml.
The start up wear is minimal but a main reason why taxis and long haulers worldwide can go
for so long yet wouldnt last the same amount of ks in normal start/stop engine commuting.

Its funny you say the Eye-tallian start up because its just what my annoying Sicilian
Gucci clad (and sometimes other spaghetti brands) neighbour does with his cars, even
his supposedly beloved 80s Alfa doesnt scape a hiding.