still no new pics, but i went a bought a gravity feed gun yesterday to use with the top coat
also found a cheaper place to supply the paint, $176 for 4ltrs compared to $255 that the other place wanted

so should have 8 litres of paint and a 20 litre drum of "premium" thinners next wednesday

how many coat of paint are you givng it 4 ltr should be plenty then clear it

Quote:
Sounds like a pretty good price for paint, Is it down Geelong way or up in Melbourne?
cheers
Bruce

are you painting in 2 pac or acrylic? 2 pac is the go, 3 coats all wet(ish) no in between rubbing back and its glossy done straight off the gun. too easy... and good!

agreed 2 pac is the go. its mega durable and you can do easy spot repairs on dents/rust if need be without painting entire panels.

ive never hand polished mine and it still always comes up shiny after a bath almost 6 years on....

its acrylic, and remember im painting the whole car inside and out and engine bay. going to give it as many coats as the paint lasts for

price is from a place in ballarat

and if i ever do have to respray anything it will be nice and cheap to respray a whole panel if need be

but hey, my sedan is original paint and it still came up nice and shiny after a polish or a good wash...not bad for 39 year old paint

You could try enamel just not necessary to go 2 pac, eg. Rustoleum as in
Unfamilias link which will will cure overnight and be quite hard, on the
other hand acrylics take a while to cure but can easily buff the faults.
Enamel can also be good when using esp or other paint smoothers out there.

20 years ago bro and his mate (who was working at a paint shop at the time)
both blind with thick coke bottle glasses, decided to paint my old xp coupe
when I handed it down to him cause he didnt like the metalic olive green with
whitewalls, white roof etc. so they painted it by brush at 11pm at nite after
a few beers. They did it at the back of the shop with desk lamps so they wouldnt
raise suspicions in case the boss drove past and saw lights on and freaked at who
the hell was ripping the place. Result was quite good with no orange peel, runs
or brush strokes same finish on their hands, .

I remember the guy said he would only charge me 30-50 for the final tint as
it doesnt require that much.

The colour Im not exactly sure where to find it but Holden was either moss green
or some other name. If you look at the links from the TCPglobal website there are
a few if anyone is interested. I think theyll itll make our old cars look awesome
with black and chrome contrasting features and hides the dirt, dust for ages before
you need to wash it again.

Im going for the following from cool to warm for choice:

willow green from 1974 mazda page 5 code 23396 (also have a look at twinkle blue above it)
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlib ... image=1974-mazda-pg05.jpg


Toyota Spring green is popular with the Rodders of Stout utes and suits
everything you combine if with grey, black, datsun engine blue, silver, chrome and even reds, orange and purple steelies and contrasts.
or

Austin Copenhagen Green 1960 its a little warmer
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlib ... mage=1960-austin-pg01.jpg

or

Toyota Spring green 1964 which is warmer again
http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1964-toyota-pg01.jpg

well well well...sanding is heaps of fun, i enjoy it thoroughly
so much so that even when the wagon is done i might just sand random things, randomly, just to get that sanding feel

but i think ive sanded about $30 worth of highfill off the car, seems a bit of a waste as all its really done is make it take longer for the car to be painted. but i think im almost finished sanding it

so on another note, how fine should i sand it before i paint? the guy at the paint place said 1000 grit or smoother...any one got a veiw on that?

but has the sanding made it smooth now?

It helps to get it all as smooth as possible 1200
i thought would be for the final wet prep.