The complete GA16DE here is also more than $200 at most yards. But pull-a-part yards charge only $100.

Thats so unfair.

Maybe i need to do some more digging to get a more realistic price.$1200 is just too much, and that didnt include any accessories. (no manifolds, alternator, etc)

If you look at the earlier links you can see the ga is the same height
as the A series if you include the air filter housing.
With the Ga though youd use sidedraftss or inj manifold.
DD is right here also in Vic its from you pull it yards.
Id stick with the A series as the E series needs to much stuffing around
to get it to what youd want. Its not really a bigger step up the evolutionary
scale and youd be pressed to make more way power than an A series anyway.
The CA16 is not a big jump either with 200cc less than a ca18 or qg18
but easier for boxes.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=317343060

Here you go guys.
Been keeping an eye on it, been thinking of putting a ga in my 120y wagon daily. Got a 5 speed 60a here so will probably try make it work with that instead of gearbox swap.

Can anyone recomend any good distrbutorless ignition ecu's? I think i'd go that route and just ditch the dizzy and run the standard computer to run the injection (will have to mod intake manifold as it points at firewall) or run it on bike carbs.

i can vouch for MegaJolt Lite Jr. Whole setup is $120 to $200. Some aussies are using it too.

The serena box looks like a 71C series can anyone confirm it?

Yes, the serena box is a 71 series. See GA Engine Swap

Quote:

Now Im so smitten by the ga16de that my ca18 stuff is looking gloomy.

I have had a look at the GA head on A series block problem & I think that it can be done, but not easily.

In my own humble view I believe that an A series camshaft can be retained, although machining it off past the oil pump drive would save same weight. The unused cam bearing bores would then need to be plugged with suitable custom pirces in the unused bearing positions to direct or plug off the oil feeds.
In a later, rear distributor engine, the whole cam can be left in place if an electronic trigger device, or even a distributor ignition is desired.
In a 1200 engine the cam can still be short as the distributor drive & the oil pump drive are the same thing.

A standard type oil pump could then be used which would remove the need to make a drive for the GA pump in the timing cover.

A whole new timing cover could be either fabricated or cast [so easy to say, not so easy to do.] without provision for a water pump which then eliminates one of the major obstacles in the drive area for the new cam.
Another means of circulating coolant will not be too hard to do.

Once the front of the engine is cleared & a means of joining the sump, the block & the head with an oil tight cover is made, then it will be possible to more closely focus on the actual drive to the cams & this may not be as big a problem as might be first thought.

It won't be easy, or cheap, but I think that it is do-able

Its intresting that even you dodgeman, have looked into this.

Im not mega keen on a super frankenstien motor, more just bolt together options with minor to moderate machining, such as

A14 block, E16 crank, A15 head
e15 block, e16 crank, ca16head
e15 block, ca16 crank, ga16 head

its the mix and match between the a, e , ca, and ga series engines that could prove to make some interesting combinations.
Keep the OHC blocks with OHC heads, else its getting very hard, and at that level, you might as well start looking at other familes of cars as well.

Keep it within the a, e, ga, ca series, and minimal machining. thats where it gets intresting i think.