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Re: A14/15 turbo~280hp, bore question |
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No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster) 
Joined: 2002/10/28 6:49
From under the Firmament LOL no twiglight effect BS
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Initially I suggested 77mm for stock block a14/15 but since Lemonhead mentioned the wetsleeve setup Im excited to see someone else thought of wetsleeving besides me years ago. This week all engines are 50% off at pick-a-tart so Ill be in there to get some sleeves and pistons from a frog engine.
Posted on: 2010/9/25 12:13
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Re: A14/15 turbo~280hp, bore question |
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Home away from home 
Joined: 2003/1/13 13:39
From Forsby Finland
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Thanx, I sure will take a closer look at custom pistons if yoa can get a set under 500$! Quote: ddgonzal wrote: Custom made pistons are about $100 USD each. See Pistons
Posted on: 2010/9/25 13:23
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I am building a mean Datsun E10 racer  , a15 turbocharged engine, aiming for 280hp....
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Re: A14/15 turbo~280hp, bore question |
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Home away from home 
Joined: 2003/1/13 13:39
From Forsby Finland
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The pistons are made for Toyota 4K engine Quote: rockstardan wrote: are them pistons custom made or out of somthing else?
Posted on: 2010/9/25 13:27
Edited by Datsun100ATurbo on 2010/9/25 17:32:39
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I am building a mean Datsun E10 racer  , a15 turbocharged engine, aiming for 280hp....
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Re: A14/15 turbo~280hp, bore question |
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Home away from home 
Joined: 2003/1/13 13:39
From Forsby Finland
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I think that the wetsleeve option is hard to manage and quite expensive but If thatīs what it takes..... I will cut a engine-block apart during the weekend and measure the cylinderwalls, I will post some pictures when itīs done! Keep me updated if you find some interesting parts!! Quote: D wrote: Initially I suggested 77mm for stock block a14/15 but since Lemonhead mentioned the wetsleeve setup Im excited to see someone else thought of wetsleeving besides me years ago. This week all engines are 50% off at pick-a-tart so Ill be in there to get some sleeves and pistons from a frog engine.
Posted on: 2010/9/25 13:33
Edited by Datsun100ATurbo on 2010/9/26 19:34:28
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_________________
I am building a mean Datsun E10 racer  , a15 turbocharged engine, aiming for 280hp....
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Re: A14/15 turbo~280hp, bore question |
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No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster) 
Joined: 2007/1/22 23:06
From East New Britain, Papua New Guinea
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What's wet-sleeving?
Posted on: 2010/9/25 23:52
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Re: A14/15 turbo~280hp, bore question |
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Home away from home 
Joined: 2004/8/30 11:04
From Christchurch
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where you bore out the old sleeve or in this case the cylinder wall larger enough that you are through into the water jacket. IE when your new sleeve goes in it will be in contact with the coolant. A dry sleeve would be say where you bore'd the block to 79mm and then pressed in a new sleeve to sleeve it back down to 76mm for example. That'd be a dry sleeve because the new sleeve is only touching the block no coolant
Obviously wet sleeves allow a bigger bore as more often than not adjacent wet sleeves touch each other allowing much larger bores to be ad withoug worrying about the factory blocks wall thickness
Hope that makes sense! :D
Posted on: 2010/9/26 0:01
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Re: A14/15 turbo~280hp, bore question |
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No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster) 
Joined: 2007/1/22 23:06
From East New Britain, Papua New Guinea
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Thanks Nick, okay then it's as basic as that? what threw me off was when D said Quote: Im excited to see someone else thought of wetsleeving besides me years ago. making me think there was something else to it. The truth is A-Series wet-sleeve setups are a little more common than that, an Adelaide member is running a big bore sleeved A15, there was also Ernie's A14 that he was selling earlier on in the year (he's built loads more). I'm pretty sure there are a handful of members in QLD (Gary, bert) and other states that have also bored out and re-sleeved their engines. Big BoreEDIT: Sorry did not intend to sound smug and matter-of-fact, I was just confused when it sounded like such an uncommon technique. Go team wet-sleeve! You wrote up about getting this done didn't you D? Got it priced out and it was under AUD$500 wasn't it?
Posted on: 2010/9/26 0:26
Edited by clyons8 on 2010/9/26 1:20:51
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Re: A14/15 turbo~280hp, bore question |
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No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster) 
Joined: 2008/10/10 22:02
From Melbourne Australia (and likely under the car)
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It depends on where you are from, in some places, wet sleeves is only used to describe engines where the sleeves are the only things in there, there's _zero_ block around them. Even going a very big bore on an A-series, you'll still have some meat around the sleeve somewhere.
On engines with wet sleeves, they can tend to 'want' to move around a little, so it puts more strain on the head gasket. They can also 'sink' a little bit over time so the head gasket doesn't hold out that long. One of the engines in particular comes to mind - the volvo/renault/peugeot collaboration called the PRV v6. It was a v6, and to say the least they had some issues. They had massive issues early on with fuel distribution blocks (mech injected) and they went as far as to redesign the intake to allow better access (by which time that issue was sorted, so now the 'new' intake made it a damn hard job to change plugs - and without the right soft jaw specially shaped pliers it was almost impossible to remove the plug leads from over the plugs without breaking one or two. It was still difficult even _with_ the right tool.
But their biggest headache (tehy also had rockers which wore through the friction surface hardening, openign up clearance and eventually to the point the valves wouldn't open much, and it wouldn't run) was the wet liners. they'd 'settle' down in teh block and stop sealing well, and even if you replaced the head gasket, they just didn't have enough clamping there. To do it 'right' you literally had to strip the motor and fit thicker shims under the sleeves then re-build. I remember doing a hell of a lot of warranty changeover work as an apprentice (worked at a place that did volvos and other high end luxury Euro stuff).
If it's NA and that's what it takes to get massive capacity then for sure go for it, but I'd personally be worried about its use for boosted stuff.
I haven't seen it in person but I have read about guys using ford cleveland v8s in the early days of pro-stock where big and small blocks were used. The cleveland is best described as 'heads by enzo ferrari, bottom end by an accountant' by many people. Basically the bores were thinner than ideal even for NA work with enough power levels (adn to that end apparently the Australian cast/made blocks are the best of the std factory blocks) anyway - they'd do a similar thing - cut the bores to a certain oversize, big enough for the sleeves (and there'd be some material to anchor them to). then heat the block, and drop in sleeves chilled in dry ice, but coated with a sort of bronz, then put then in a big 'oven' and raise the temp to the point it'd sweat the bronze and seal it all up.
On some hondas - with big outputs - they do a thing called 'posting' the block (they are more or less an open deck sleeve setup). this is where they drill holes in the outside of the block in-line with each cylinder, then tap the holes and screw in alloy (usually alloy, soft tipped at any rate) 'bolts' till they just touch the outside wall of the bore and very light tension. It doesn't sound like much but it helps stabilise the sleeve against side/thrust loads when the rods are at severe angles. I don't think the A-series requires it as is, but if you start chasing wet sleeves, it might eventually be necessary to post the a-series blocks.
Posted on: 2010/9/27 10:05
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John McKenzie
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Re: A14/15 turbo~280hp, bore question |
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Home away from home 
Joined: 2003/1/13 13:39
From Forsby Finland
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This is getting more interesting each day. I had another chat with my friend who owns the speedshop, he told me that they tried wetsleeves in the Volvo block for several times but they had big problems with the sleeves sinking and getting them to seal properly. They also tried sleeves and filled the block with concrete but as I wrote erarlier they ended up manufacturing own billet blocks, thatīs not a option for me. He also told me that I can get problems with blown headgaskets if I bore the A-block out to 79mm or more, there is not much area left between the cylinders and in a boosted engine it might be a problem. I will ask my engine-machinist if itīs possible to insert wet-sleeves and at what cost. I have never heard about "posting" but it sounds interesting. I will post a picture of my cylinderhead and my MS managament system and custom trigger-wheel.  A-series turbo cylinderhead with 38/33 valves  MS managament system and A-series 36-1 trigger-wheel Marcus Quote: jmac wrote: It depends on where you are from, in some places, wet sleeves is only used to describe engines where the sleeves are the only things in there, there's _zero_ block around them. Even going a very big bore on an A-series, you'll still have some meat around the sleeve somewhere.
On engines with wet sleeves, they can tend to 'want' to move around a little, so it puts more strain on the head gasket. They can also 'sink' a little bit over time so the head gasket doesn't hold out that long. One of the engines in particular comes to mind - the volvo/renault/peugeot collaboration called the PRV v6. It was a v6, and to say the least they had some issues. They had massive issues early on with fuel distribution blocks (mech injected) and they went as far as to redesign the intake to allow better access (by which time that issue was sorted, so now the 'new' intake made it a damn hard job to change plugs - and without the right soft jaw specially shaped pliers it was almost impossible to remove the plug leads from over the plugs without breaking one or two. It was still difficult even _with_ the right tool.
But their biggest headache (tehy also had rockers which wore through the friction surface hardening, openign up clearance and eventually to the point the valves wouldn't open much, and it wouldn't run) was the wet liners. they'd 'settle' down in teh block and stop sealing well, and even if you replaced the head gasket, they just didn't have enough clamping there. To do it 'right' you literally had to strip the motor and fit thicker shims under the sleeves then re-build. I remember doing a hell of a lot of warranty changeover work as an apprentice (worked at a place that did volvos and other high end luxury Euro stuff).
If it's NA and that's what it takes to get massive capacity then for sure go for it, but I'd personally be worried about its use for boosted stuff.
I haven't seen it in person but I have read about guys using ford cleveland v8s in the early days of pro-stock where big and small blocks were used. The cleveland is best described as 'heads by enzo ferrari, bottom end by an accountant' by many people. Basically the bores were thinner than ideal even for NA work with enough power levels (adn to that end apparently the Australian cast/made blocks are the best of the std factory blocks) anyway - they'd do a similar thing - cut the bores to a certain oversize, big enough for the sleeves (and there'd be some material to anchor them to). then heat the block, and drop in sleeves chilled in dry ice, but coated with a sort of bronz, then put then in a big 'oven' and raise the temp to the point it'd sweat the bronze and seal it all up.
On some hondas - with big outputs - they do a thing called 'posting' the block (they are more or less an open deck sleeve setup). this is where they drill holes in the outside of the block in-line with each cylinder, then tap the holes and screw in alloy (usually alloy, soft tipped at any rate) 'bolts' till they just touch the outside wall of the bore and very light tension. It doesn't sound like much but it helps stabilise the sleeve against side/thrust loads when the rods are at severe angles. I don't think the A-series requires it as is, but if you start chasing wet sleeves, it might eventually be necessary to post the a-series blocks.
Posted on: 2010/9/27 19:52
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_________________
I am building a mean Datsun E10 racer  , a15 turbocharged engine, aiming for 280hp....
|
|
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Re: A14/15 turbo~280hp, bore question |
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No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster) 
Joined: 2008/10/10 22:02
From Melbourne Australia (and likely under the car)
Group:
Registered Users
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One of the options that has been used here is related to what you mention. They 'grout' the block (it might as well be cement/concrete, it's very similar) - which obviously helps it out, but for street cars what they've done is to only fill it up to the bottom of the welsh plugs (I think called 'freeze plugs' outside of Australia?) So essentially it's 'half' filled , and done like that you still have coolant circulating (and the bottom half of the bores don't get anywhere near as much exposure to heat as the upper half, so it basically doesn't affect cooling very much (maybe zero effect in some cases) but it does of course help the cylinder walls not to move/flex)
There is custom made filler for the job from most 'speed' shops, but I personally think it might just be ordinary cement or some sort of tile cement that is relabelled and the price doubled. It wouldn't surprise me, but I don't know for sure.
Posted on: 2010/9/28 12:28
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John McKenzie
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