ok guys, I may conceed that i did have several issues that contributed to an overall problem and it is all the little bits that add up to big problems. I am just of the opinion that placing a shim is a quick fix for something that should be done properly. Every article i have read and every big RELIABLE hp figure that you see is produced with proper preparation (ie stroker kits, pistons, big bores etc), not placing a shim or spacer in to lower compression.
Each to his own I guess...
A14force, all i can say is give it a go- if it works, power to you.... if not give me a call and we can start again...
Just one other thing worth mentioning, supercharging an engine is about maximum flow. I spent about 16 hours match porting everything (exhaust manifold and inlet manifold) with the trusty old die grinder. Spend that little bit of extra time and you will reap the rewards

Good advice blown 1400, I think after the engine ive got now self destructs, Ill do it all properly on the next motor


Keep on charging dude

Bart

I'm still not seeing any pictures here....

Fair call lobster, once mine is fully bitching Ill be sure to post some pics ,then you guys are all going to want one(I know I cant wait to get it all together

I have wanted this for my car, for ages. I have just wanted someone who has done it cheaply, to give advice.
I don't plan on high boost or anything, just lik 5-7psi or so....
I want everyone when they see my car, to go "Hey thats that supercharged Datsun!"

Instead of "Oh a turbo datsun again"
YEs I know that turbo will give more power etc etc...
I just have been set on the idea of S/C for ages...

hey there Lobster and a14force, I will (hopefully) have photos of my ute posted by the end of this week.
Still haven't got a camera, but I will get one from one of the guys at work. Like I said, it ain't pretty, but everything that is in there is in the interest of reliable hp- not good looks

Quote:There is one thing about a supercharged engine that is better than a turbo engine: no throttle lag -- just instant, smooth power.

Question for you Mick, are you using a standard inlet manifold, or a fabricated one?
If its fabricated , is the distance from the
back two ports to the blower, equal to the front? Do you have anything sticking through
the bonet? (mine will) The reason I ask this is beacause arent dead equal. But a mate of
mine who has an 8/71 "jimmy huffa" asures me that when the valves open there will be an intake runner full of pressurised charge
spewing into the cylinder , and becease its
all under pressure a minor difference in intake
runner length wont cause the rear two cylinders to lean out.

(SH*T I SURE HOPE HES RIGHT)
What do you think?

This is very topical for me as I am currently doing an M62 Eaton from a 2.8 Buick on an L series engine.
EDIT!
Firstly, fitting an A14 crank to an A15 will give 7.22:1 comp ratio (2.5 mm below deck stroke). Most engines will take 5 - 6 Psi boost without doing any mods other than timing to prevent detonation from increased cylinder pressures.

When fitting a supercharger, you should match the swept volume of the supercharger to the size of the engine. If the choice is made carefully, problems from ovrboosting and the required paraphenalia to solve these problems will be minimised.
The supercharger will also be kept in its safe operating speed with correct selection.

To choose a setup you need to know :-
1. Engine capacity
2. Maximum engine speed you will be using.
3. Boost level desired

I am setting out the calcs needed for a 1200cc engine in the steps below.

FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi )
Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 1.2 litres x 6000 rpm = 7200 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (7200/2 = 3600 litres/min.
This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost.

SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio)
Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure).
(7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi)
Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure.

THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost)

Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 3600 litres/min X 1.476 = 5313.6 litres/min for 7Psi boost.

To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :-
1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev)
2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??)
3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??)

CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed)
Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.5 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required.
5313.6/1.5 litres = 3542.4 rpm for the SC14.
5313.6/1 litre = 5313.6 rpm Eaton M62

CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio)
Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is
3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904. With an 8" shaft pulley on the supercharger the crank pulley for this ratio would be 4.732".

EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO
If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min

Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi.

Hope this helps.

Makes good sence, where did you get the
litres per rev figure from for the 1-g gze blower ? Is this the same unit as comes on a toyota soarer (thats what mines off) also out of curiousity (for a mate) does anyone know the liters per rev for a 4agze unit?