Dont forget to save some money to get it tuned once you have it together.

Its a carby and I will be running a full time AEM Wideband guage and sensor so I can tune it myself. This (single, cable operated) carby will be a breeze to tune compared the the 4 carb, SU type BS34 I managed to get running and tune.

In a search I used to find that photo I edited I found a series of pictures showing timing chain replacement in car and only by taking the timing cover off. It seems as if it is do able.

Put it this way, Ill try the timing cover approach, but if I feel as if it wont go back together and seal properly then I'll pull the motor and do it properly.

I'm just trying to avoid pulling the motor because, well, I've never done it before lol. However, I like the timing cover idea as the Ali. has some meat to tap a thread in it and the location is spot on and is close to the turbo oil exit.

Attach file:

---

  14385.jpg (90.32 KB)

The wide band is the go for the fuel side. How will you tune the ignition side of things?
Maybe get yourself a knock monitor like the Kmon, just to ensure your not creeping into detonation.
Sounds like your going to give it plenty of boost!

I'm running a locked elec. dizzy but yeah I'll be looking into a knock sensor in the furture so I can get full power.

Don't fool yourself. I recently removed the timing cover with the engine in the car. It was a 24ct solid gold CVNT of a job. I had to use the double nut technique to remove the studs that the water pump sits on. (there wasn't much thread to work with, as the studs aren't very long) Then I couldn't get the sump studs out of the bottom edge of the timing cover, no matter how hard I tried. I wound up lowering the sump down a whisker, to get the timing cover free. And I still bent the oil slinger badly enough to need to swap it for another one. In the finish I pulled the motor out, and refitted everything with new gaskets. (Which would have been a millions times easier right from the get-go. If I were in your position, I'd just drop the Xmember, and prop the front of the motor up with a stand (or similar) under the front pulley. Then you can drop the sump out with ease and do the job properly. One thing I've learned is that doing things half arsed, will come back to bite you in the arse 9 times outta 10. And one thing I can't stand it oil leaks!
Also, no-one has mentioned an beaut means of connecting your return to the sump. Someone here (I think it was Kegs) once suggested using an oil pickup as the mating flange to the sump. Then you get a decent diameter return line, and a nice flange with two bolt holes in it. You just cut off the filter end, and put a swage in the tube to help keep the hose in place. Bobs your uncle!

The other drawback (Which I found) about removing the timing cover in the car, was that old gasket material/crap will fall into the sump. It's unavoidable. You can't afford to take risks like that with a motor you're going to treat the way you're going to treat yours. I'm picking you're going to lunch a few pistons along the way anyway, (most of us who have overboosted standard pistons have, it's par for the course) but it's all part of the journey.

I pulled the sump off when I turboed my ute with the engine still in by removing Xmember,starter motor then sump I bought threaded bush and cap from pirtek welded the bush the you can screw what ever you want in pretty messy job but not that hard.
But if I had to do it again I would pull engine/box out fit new clutch,rear main etc while its off the road.With 18psi boost the new clutch wont be very far off anyway

Hmmm, thanks for the heads up...I guess?! lol

Already have a new clutch in there when I brought it.

Can you elaborate more on...

"...using an oil pickup as the mating flange to the sump. Then you get a decent diameter return line, and a nice flange with two bolt holes in it. You just cut off the filter end, and put a swage in the tube to help keep the hose in place..."

So you mean cut it down so you essentially have a flange with 2 bolt holes and a pipe (~2" long) to hoseclamp the return hose too? How to you attach the flange to the sump? 2 Tek screws and sealant?

Which brings me too this...

I mocked up the return line and returning it to the timing cover will work but there isnt enough high difference (fall) for the oil so draining abilities will be poor. So I will go to the sump simply to because its more main stream in turbo setups AND to aid drainage.

I reckon I can make a punch and punch a hole in the sump, make a flanged tube as mentioned before and locate the bore over the hole, spot though the holes with a drill, remove the flange and drill holes to suit a tek screw (use a greased drill to minimise swarf into the sump) instead of drilling with the tek screw.

Now assemble the flange to the sump with loctite 515 on the flange face and use loctite 515 on the tek screws to seal the threads.

Hmm, that could almost do as a premanent solution!? What do you guys think?

Worst case is it only holds up until I rebuild the motor which in that case I will TIG on a BSPT boss.

I had the box out 4000km after putting the turbo etc on I was spewin. If you are going to punch the drain hole you might as well punch the screw holes aswell use self tappers and glue it on with something more permenent like sikaflex or 2 part epoxy maybe ? and hope it doesnt leak

Good idea, that way theres no swarf and extra meat for the metal tek. Time to machine some spikes and make some test holes in some scrap.

This setup combined with the right sealant will do well as a permanent setup I reckon.

I wouldnt use self tappers. Personally I'd drill the tree holes in the side of the sump, then use a gasket between the flange and the sump, and have a reinforcing plate tacked to the inside of the sump with captive nuts tacked to it also. Then you could remove it and blank it off at a later stage if need be.
I'm not saying some of the other ways wont work, but oil leaks would give me the screaming sh1ts and you'd need to pul the sump to fix them if they do spring up.