I've got a set of 4-2-1 extractors hanging on the wall of my shed. They used to be in the B10 but with the short A10 motor they were too close to the ground for a rally car. I think they were originally 1200 (B110) extractors. I had them coated in some high temperature stuff so they are in good condition. I'm in Melbourne (Eltham area) if you are interested in looking at them.

Mark

So the weber 32/36 downdraught carb is looking like a definite in this build.

Just a question, looking ebay I've come across two webers:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/WEBER-CARB-POR ... m2a0df11101#ht_546wt_1139

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan ... uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

One being new at $280 and the other a recon at $700.

Whats up with that? the higher price has a manifold with it, is this why there is such a large pricing gap? Or am I missing something?

Laidlaym: Thanks for the offer but right now I'm looking at probably getting at seeing about a custom stainless steel. Well, seeing how much it will cost anyway! :)

Cylons8: What are the main diferences between the H89 or H75 head? What would you choose in this situation? Also in regards to the diff, do you know which diff would be a suitable replacement? Looks like I will taking a visit down to the wreckers soon enough to find some donors.

Does the datsun 1000 flywheel works in the A14 like the A12 flywheel?
Best regards.

That mani on ebay with carb is only a round port.

Wreckers dont have anything these days for a 1000 and
the all diffs you find will need shortening and suspension
mount mods to fit (expensive). best stick to stock diff or
upgrade to h150 using Clyons8 h150 adapter.

SS custom exhaust will cost about 600-700 dollars done right
in store to suit your 1000, Id recommend stock modded headers
as few fit except for 280-300 dollar new ones from sydney mob.

Start simple then if you need more bling it up as money builds.
This project seems to need a lot of work so plan well.

best choice over the years as done by a few on this site for 1000s:

Put in an early a12 and source an a14 crank and a12a conrods.
This info is already on this site, check the Wiki or Tech info.
You bore to 76mm use milled a15 pistons, have counterweights
of a14 machined to fit early a12 block (dizzie at front not middle)
and use the later a12 conrods which have the right pin size.
This conversion will say a12 on your block and should pass inspection
as a10 are hard to find and sometimes they pass an extra 179cc.

Change to a12 clutch cable its better than a10. Machine your a10 flywheel
to suit bigger clutch from a14 and have everything balanced.

Mild camshaft similar to GX, Higher compression h89 head instead of h75
which is open chamber and needs to be milled for more comp and gets thin
after a few build ups. Short turn radius porting, clean up casting slags
and fit larger L16 exhaust valves. Match port oval port manifold with
32/36 and tuned professionally with electronic ignition. Match port your
choice of extractors or have some custom made depending on money left over.
Note: dont go too far on porting just cleaning up ports and improving the
short turn radius is all you need. Overporting will make it a pig down low.
You could go slightly higher comp with the pistons making sure you mill them
to deck heigh then have valve recesses machined. Milling head weakens it and
reduces the value of a now very hard to find h89 item.