cant get cable on --lever not coming forward enough to hook cable over -- a14 block & 5spd box --cable loose at pedal but still a problem

You got the right thrust bearing on and is it in properly?

thanks will have to check the works as i have been busy with this [car] for along time --could be way it's mounted [gearbox] cos i can hardly get the cable over --space between lever and body to small

They are hard to get on try slack the adjuster right off and put something around the arm so you can pull it from with leverage but something u can cut off after fitting cable

i had this issue with my a15 and 4 speed, the box fouled on the tunnel, the old owner thought it was smart to just cut a hole in it.

my issue was it sat 20mm to 30mm too high so the lever wa never fully engaged, so couldnt get the cable on.

ended up grinding the tip of the cable to wedge between the tunnel and box so it just slipped over,

With the 5 speed you have to use the clutch fork with the ninety degree bend at the top, as the bell housing area is longer than the smaller 5 speeds. Hopefully you got one with the box, but you have to take the box back out, unfortunately.

thks all done what u all said -- prob have to follow last advice --damn dont feel like it --thats why i asked nissan mech --only no mech's today only new part fitters

I had the same problem, b310gx's advice matches what I did to fix the problem.
I have used the other clutch fork aswell but its really hard to fit and it does touch the tunnel, but if you get it on it will work (based only on my experience & depending upon how/where your engine is located on the crossmember).

Made that mistake in 1988. Blew the 56a 5 speed I was running, so put a 60a 4 speed in, used the old fork, no joy.
Changed the fork over, now I can change gears. Here's a couple of things to try to make it easier. (1) Grind down the end of the clutch cable that goes over the clutch fork so it has a chamfer. There's plenty of meat on that casting & I've never had one fail there, they usually fail at the clutch pedal end. (2) wind the clutch pedal stop all the way out so you can pull the clutch pedal towards you.This moves the little lug at the top of the pedal closer to the firewall & gives some more clearance on the plenum chamber. (3) Support the transmission with a trolley jack, loosen/undo the transnission crossmember bolts & lower the jack down so you have more room to get the cable end over the fork. (4) Clearance (Hit it with a hammer) the transmission tunnel where the clutch fork is closest, this can only be done successfully while the gearbox is removed or you can't get a good enough swing . Remember you also need the longer throwout bearing housing that should have come with the gearbox, or the bearing won't contact the pressure plate properly. Good luck with the conversion.