Just bought an l16/ 4 speed out of a stanza! Either going in wagon or my sedan (auto tunnel)! But For the guys that have dealt with the conversion, would love to hear your thoughts, tips, set ups etc. I've heard it's possible to use auto a series tail shaft? Also is the wagon diff likely to be able to handle the extra power?

apparently it is possible to run the Auto tailshaft, but from what ive seen they are too long. had to shorten the one we used in unfamilias car by an inch or 2

H145 should handle the power if you drive normally, if you are doing burnouts and hard launches and stuff a h165 would be the go

you can use modified stanza crossmember mounts, the tower bits, on a 1200 crossmember to make the mounts easier
think a series 2 bluebird sump is supposed to be the best sump to use for the conversion as it sits closer to the engine. think its bluebird but not 100% sure

ive found that an under dash hydraulic clutch setup is the easiest and neatest way of doing the clutch, that way you only have to slightly modify the stock clutch pedal and make a mount for the master cylinder

i used a camry radiator, but its a little too wider for the 1200 so you have to do some panel beating to where the bumper mounts go to get the right clearance

bought all i can think of at the moment

yeah im not sure how an a series atuo tail shaft would work, datsandy shortened his too.

only white sedan had success with it i think.

im using a ca18det radiator. works ok.

if ou sit the engine too high, it will hit the bonnet, if too low, then it can be an issue and need sump mods.

pigdog can advise of which engine mounts are best. i think 200b ones sit it up a little higher.

worrd of advice, its going to be a very tight fit to get the engine and box in in one go with just an auto tunnel. we just got it in with a bluebird tunnel (or was it a 180b one? cant remember now 100%).

the under dash set up seems easier, but i lacked the skills and $$ so just used piggys old setup once he went under dash.

wrong on both counts mik, it was a stanza tunnel. would have fitted fine if we had of cut the stock mounts out

auto tunel should be fine as they are just as big. might just need to mod the very back of it depending on what angle you have the gearbox on

I thought auto box tunnel was little lower, was stAnza, just checked build lol.
My memory sucks

possibly a little lower, dont thin height is that much of an issue though

I will disagree about the H145. It can break easily with A15 power even under moderate driving. Yes, it may last, but you cannot count on it. This partly depends on what transmission gearing options you use hence some guys having it last and other having it break.

L16 fits under the stock bonnet no problem. Even the taller L20B fits, so the L16 has plenty of room.

do u have to cut the tunnel in a manual car to fit this combo???

No, but it is a tight fit, put the transmission in first, then bolt the engine in. A lot of guys mod/cut the tunnel to gain extra clearance. But you can just massage the sheet metal with a hammer.

We had to shorten tailshaft mainly because we used the 120y borg warner diff and 120y auto tailshaft. 1200 Auto tailshaft to H145 should work as long as you use the shorter L series box like stanza 4 speed or R30/SSS Stanza stumpy 5 speed. Suggestion, drop the motor and box in the bay once everything is removed e.g radiator sit it in place as if its mounted by jacking the box up in place and engine still hanging on crane. Hook up the tailshaft and base your mounting points off that as long as its not to far forward and stanza sump will be fine for L16.You can also put a nice long piece of light timber across the guard tops east west to check engine height/bonnet clearance. we dumped stock carb and air cleaner and went with a weber 32/36. Auto tunnel will be fine. Although don't expect the box to come out or go in easy when disconnected from engine.