I would check to see if there is power coming out of the ignition switch to the starter. if there is power it is a problem with the wire between the ignition switch and starter or a bad inline connector. of no power I would say it is a bad switch but make sure you have pwer going to switch
Bob

I had power coming from the ignition switch to the starter... but not enough.
I checked and cleaned and tightened everything. Click, click, click. If I shorted the starter with a coin it would start, no problem.
So I added a relay between the ign.sw and the starter. Now the ignition switch turns on the relay, the relay turns on the starter solenoid.

It is very common for the ignition switch to go bad, since it doesn't use a relay. One symptom is that wiggling the key will sometimes get it to start.

This is just the electrical switch on the back of the keylock, and is not part of the key mechanism. It didn't use to cost much, and hopefully Nissan still has them. I'm pretty sure they are the same as the B310 (sunny) switch.

You can test this switch with an ohmmeter or voltmeter.

I spoke to my auto electrician again apparently there was power going to both the ignition and battery connections on the solenoid. I guess that could only mean one thing that the solenoid is gone. I sourced one from Ashdown electrical for aroun $70 bucks im guna replace it and see where to go from there.

I actually pulled the starter off and the solenoid looks as if its been welded before so i guess the fault is in the ignition + wire as it wobbles a little bit.

If that dont work back to square one i guess. Thanks for the help guys!

Grief!! Im having problems again with startup. Now there is definately a clicking sound (solenoid) but the turnover is pissweak and isnt enough to start the motor. I checked charge on the battery after trying to start her and it read 10.48 V so that aint to blame. I tried to clutch her with my dad driving and for some retarded reason my dad turned the key and she started!! My dad then suggested it may be the contact points in the starter not being in correct alignment. I tried hger straight after 3 times and she started fine. Then about an hour later it happened again and im lost for what it could be! Is my starter motor ####? It clicks very well so it couldnt be the solenoid plus its new.

Help me!

I reckon it's the ignition switch..I've replaced 3 of them on 1200s over the years...

Where is the ignition switch located? How much do they sell them for? Is it the same as the 120y one? Can u buy one new? i might give that a try.

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If you hear the solenoid pull in when you turn the key it isn't the ignition switch.
You say the turnover is pissweak , so I take it the engine is turning but very slowly? yes/no?
Solenoid is brand new? yes/no?
If it is We can rule out the solenoids contacts.
Are the battery terminals clean and tight?
If not this can be the problem. If they are loose or dirty their connection will be bad and there will be resistance. And when you try to start the terminal will cause an arc and after enough trys this arcing will eventually make a good contact and the car will start good.

Next I would check the voltage ( while cranking) on the solenoid at the short wire that goes inside the startermotor.
( this test is only good if the car is failing to start.)

If this is all good, the problem is inside the starter itself. Could be the brushes not making good contact. Or a faulty armature winding.

My bet is battery terminals( make sure all conections are tight. Both on battery, starter and negative to the engine block.)

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I remember an old mechanic telling me "bring your variables under control" & it seems that your problem is heat related.

Bobs1200 has made a very good point that will cost nothing to check. The original earth cable was bolted to one of the timing case bolts & this provided a good earth path from the starter, through the engine & straight back to the earth terminal.

If your earth cable is not running from the battery terminal to the engine, but to the body instead, then it might be worth the effort to try to hook it onto the engine as per original. It's a no cost item to check, & low cost to rectify. In any event, ensure that the points of contact are clean, & a little steel wool will help here.

how do u check the voltage going to anything with a multimeter? Im so clueless lol.