Yes i have done it. The only difference there was between the 1200 one and the 1500 head was only 3cc's. The 1200 was 27 cc's and the 1500 was 30 cc,s. I also did the piston top dish
and that came to 4 cc's. So any ideas how much to take off the 1500 head. How much is the max that i may take off, does any one know. I am also currently porting and polishing the
ports. Any hints as to where i should mainly concentrate taking metal out from and any other things that are going to gain me performance.

Cheers
Anthony

try and match the exhaust port to the header. for the head go to a machining shop and let them work out the formulas for you as they will have charts and more idea. it wont
cost anymore as they will have to take the metal away to the proper hight and surface it anyway. also work out what your head gasket is going to add.
choice from chris

Funny, I'm doing the exact same thing with my A14 cylinder head as we speak. I tore it all apart, took all the valves and studs out and started porting/polishing it. The best way to match
the header and intake with the ports is to grab a used intake/exhaust gasket and see where the gasket either wasn't compressed around the port, or where the gasket is blackened. I'm using a
grinding tool in a drill to port it out first, then use 3 stages of emery cloth (rough, medium, fine) to work out all the imperfections and create a beautifully smooth and almost mirror
finished port. After that I use aluminum polish and hand polish until it really is like a mirror. It's important to get the exhaust as shiny and smooth as possible, but it's not as important
with the intakes. So far I have one exhaust port finished, took probably about 1.5 - 2 hrs, but it looks great! I used this same technique on my GX intake and every time I take it off, it
still looks like a mirror. Anyways, good luck with your head. I'm going to have the machine shop put in bronze guides, new seats, oversize stainless valves, etc. Should run pretty good after
it's done. See ya later!

-Andy

By measuring the CC's in your cylinder head combustion chambers, you can clearly use this volumn to calculate compression ratios.

Don't forget that matching the combustion chamber's CC's can help ballance the pressures in the four cylinders. & contribute to an engine that rev's freely & even puts out more power.
Compare the CC's of the four combustion chambers before cleaning them up.(De-burring etc.) Clean up the chambers in the head to the point of removing the least amount of material possible.
Measure all 4 & take note of the chamber with the greatest CC volumn.(They're rarely exactly the same). This will become your target CC's for the other three. Gradually touch up the
remaining chambers untill you come as close as possible to the greatest amount.
Example; an untouched A12 head may measure to-
#1, 23CC. #2, 24CC. #3, 23CC. #4, 25CC. before any cumbustion chamber cleanup.
Your target would become #4 (the largest chamber).
After repeated grinding touching up etc. You might end up with-
#1,2,3,& 4 all opened up to 26CC's or even slightly larger.(please note; I pulled these #'s out of the air, actual amounts will probably vary). The key is that they'll all be equal which
usually results in matched compression and a smoother revving engine.
Any loss to the final compression ratio can be compensated by a little more shaved off the head surface, or a thinner head gasket.

Smokey Yunick had some things to say on the issue of balancing compression ratios. His theory was, rather than balance them to each other balance them to make the most power in each
cylinder. The thought is that not all cylinders have equal cooling and some will go into detonation before others. So if they are all balanced to their maximum output for a given mixture and
spark advance you should get more power than if you sacrifice ignition timing for the weaker cylinders. I realized as I was writing this that it would really only make a difference in full
out race engines and that we would never even notice it on the street. Never mind, ignore me.