Fuel Pump Breather Hole

Fuel Pump

Fuel Pump A12 A15

Not sure if those links are relevant to your situation, perhaps.

The plugs do not look oil fouled. The two outer ones look rich.

The video is difficult to see the smoke. Better to show a zoomed out view of the air around the ute, and not zoom in on the exhaust pipe. We need to see the smoke as it drifts away.

Towards the end some smoke appears, but it's difficult to tell what it is.
http://youtube.com/v/75iYT0rya74

Please note what you have most likely experienced may well not be worn rings as you suspect.
Ever wondered why bodies like the RACV NRMA etc urge people to service their vehicles before going on holidays?
You have most likely just experienced one of the reasons why they do so.
The Weber is undoubtedly jetted way rich this leads to excess fuel getting past the rings into the sump,this then mixes with the oil thinning it out a common issue with city driven vehicles as short trips have a greater percentage of driving on either choke or enrichment cycles if EFI.
Under normal short trips the engine will burn off the thinner oil over time but the added fuel will maintain or even increase the dipstick level,so when you check it it seems OK.

However when you go on a longer trip (ie Holidays) then the longer distance will introduce enough heat into the engine to actually evaporate the fuel out of the oil leading to a major drop in oil level.
This is why people blow up the engines some distance from the beginning of a motorway or expressway as the increased distance allied to harder hotter running evaporates the accumulated fuel out of the oil.Simply put when you thought you had say 4 litres of oil you actually had say 2 litres of oil mixed with 2 litres of fuel.

So as you can see this is most likely your problem,you will smell petrol in the oil when you drain it quite likely so dont rush into an engine rebuild just yet.
Sort that rich running fuel system and give it some fresh oil first.

Quote:

This is pretty much the situation with this thing, oil soaked area adjacent to the pump. Not sure if my pump has that breather hole. Except I'm pretty sure mine is the rebuildable type with the screws on top?

Before I left Rockhampton, I dipped the stick and it was clean (no oil touching the stick). I filled it with just a smidge over 3 litres to bring it up to the H mark on the stick, so it had plenty of fresh oil (if the previous owner wasnt so picky i wouldve dumped what was in the sump on his lawn and filled it completely with new oil). Yeah it was a town/work car so probably didn't have many long trips before the 320km trip to my place.

It used 10L of fuel from rockhampton to benaraby (use google maps to see the distance) so i dont think it runs all that rich, its just when you give it a bootfull of throttle. I've got a 12R Daihatsu/Toyota motor (1600) in the shed with a carb on it which I think has the same base/mounting bolt pattern, or I could also try a couple of A12 carbs in pieces which I could frankenstein 1 decent one out of.

I'll drop the oil and change the air filter and fuel pump and see what happens. If it doesn't improve anything I'll pull the rocker gear off and change the valve stem seals. And if that doesnt do it then I'll pull the motor and box and bolt it to an engine stand and rebuild it.

Playing with the tach the other night, I pressed the set button and saw they had the shift light set at 7500rpm :-/ I'm not liking my chances of getting away with not pulling the head/sump off.

Is 175-190psi (12.5-13 bar) any good regarding compression?

Sounds like good comp ,my motor will have

11.46 to 1 static comp (calculated without the cam specs

And 8.84 to 1 dynamic comp with 180psi cranking pressure ,which included the cam specs and is the total comp of the motor when built

So ide say yes the motor seems to have good comp ,but was that a wet or dry comp test ? ,and ide replace the valve stem seals anyway

Cheers

Quote:

Spik no ingrish?

I pulled all the plugs, pulled the coil lead off, threaded the comp tester into the plug hole, wound the engine over till the gauge stopped rising, then unthreaded the tester and repeated this for the rest of the cylinders. #1 read 12 bar, #2 read 13 bar, #3 read 12.5 bar, and #4 read 12.5 bar.

now repeat test with oil squirted in the bores
if ring are worn they will seal with oil
WET or DRY

How much oil? And how much should the reading rise with the oil added (if at all)?

Yes the reading will spike and change significantly. EDIT: Actually that kinda depends on the severity of the leak but there is definitely a noticeable difference)

I think only a bit of oil would do, say 15cc's? Maybe even less than that. Try 8cc or so and then go to 15cc and tell us what happened.

I overdid one cylinder (accidentally) with 30cc once and in an effort to diagnose a ring or valve seal problem I think I ruined my chances as the oil helped to seal the leaking valves as well. I know you do a leak down test for suspect head/valves but this was done to get a QUICK answer (ring or head/valves).