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maintenance
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2004/2/21 11:59
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What is the best engine oil for datsun sunny 1980? must i get the engine oil from burson or the ones from supermarket works just as well? what about the tyre pressure? what other things should i do, to maintain the car well? please help, i know nothing about cars.

Posted on: 2004/2/21 12:49
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Re: maintenance
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Assuming that it is the original engine in there still, a thicker oil would be best. I just use the shell stuff for older cars in my old girl. Its in a red drum. That will do the trick. Dont use synthitic as it will kill the old girl.
20w-50 is about right. Just dont expect her to do necksnapping wheelstands or anything. If you wanna thrash her about, a better quality oil might be a good idea, but not essential. At the end of the day, the more you pay for oil, the better the quality is.
About 30psi is enough to run in standard tyres for regualr city use. increase this by a few lbs for extra long distance runs.
The best thing that you can do for that car, is service it on time, every time. Check levels at least weekly, and watch the guages. if you dontknow what a new sound is, then take it to your grease monkey to have alook.

Posted on: 2004/2/21 13:28
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Re: maintenance
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hello reuby, thanks for the info. i have got 15w-40 at home, do u think that is alright? or 20w-50 is better?
thanks.

Posted on: 2004/2/21 13:48
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Re: maintenance
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by the way, does regular unleaded petrol or premium makes any difference in the car?

Posted on: 2004/2/21 13:50
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Re: maintenance
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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15w-40 is a thinner oil. You could use it, but if you can fork out for th thicker 20w50 then thats a better option. its only about $15 for the shell stuff for 5 litres which is enough for 1 service plus a bit extra.

About the fuel issue, well i depends who you talk to. Post a seperate topic with the question and you are bound to get a better option then me.
as far I am concerned, it is really only an issue for the older cast iron head motors, which there are few and far between on jap motors. My 69 has an alloy head, so your dato should for sure. you can tell by the distinct colour difference. alloy is silver and cast iron is like ..iron the same as the block.
Alloy heads already have hardened seats in them so unleaded should worry them too much. I run premium fuel as it as an octace closer to the old leaded fuel and will help with any pinging probs, and for the extra $1-2 a tank, why not! If you are worried you can by tablets to put in the fuel when you fill it up, or fit a automatic lube system, like flashlube to the car, but these are a bit pricey. hope that helps

Posted on: 2004/2/21 14:16
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Re: maintenance
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Oil..don't waste your money....buy consumer grade stuff. Which means almost anything. If you are spending more than US$15 for a gallon..you are definitely spending too much. Unless you are running a stocker, and want to keep your engine number forever..then keep it real, don't waste your money.

PULP is a waste of time for an A series.
Prove me wrong..and I'll change my opinion.
edit: I should say that it's a waste on a stock A12 engine. A full-on race engine is a different kettle of fish.

For the oil, it really depends how much (and how hard) you drive the car, and how often you change your oil. Also depends on the age of the engine. But generally speaking, Any Valvoline or Castrol or "regular" brand of oil will do.


Posted on: 2004/2/21 14:31
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Re: maintenance
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Dattodude, I use PULP not for some expected power increase, but because its octane is closer to what leaded used to be. leaded used to be at 92 i think, unleaded is about 86 and Pulp is around 96-98 depending on what brand.
This helps in preventing pinging and any other problems that my be related to a lower octance fuel. For the extra $1 it costs me, it cant hurt. and its better for the enviroment, or so the ads say....
edit: oil, yeah just use the regular stuff off the shelf. dont spend to much. 20w-50 is the grade that I use.

Posted on: 2004/2/21 14:41
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Re: maintenance
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I agree with Dattodude, at least for stock A-type engines.

- The original octane ratings used in 1971-1973 aren't the same as the new ratings. Today's low-rated fuel is about the same as the less-expensive fuel back then. I'm speaking of "regular" US grade (the lowest grade). We now have Regular, medium and Premium.

In other words, the octane is the same, only the number is lower. This tricks many people into spending more money than they need to.

- Pinging? Tune-up your engine and put a lower temperature thermostat in it.

Posted on: 2004/2/21 20:55
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Re: maintenance
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Reei, here is Nissan's recommendations for engine oil (from 1978, but the newer B310 engines are virtually identical):

Quote:
SD or SE rating
10W-30/40 - above 0 F (-20 C)
5W-30 - below 32 F (0 C)
20W-40 - above 14 F (-10 C)
30W - 32-90 F (0-32 C)
40W - above 60 F (15 C)
reference: Tune-up Article

Posted on: 2004/2/21 21:10
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Re: maintenance
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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well there you go. You learn something new every day. I dont actually have a pinging problem, but for old wornout crappy motors, it might be a problem.
Is that the same in Australia with reguards to the octane ratings??

Posted on: 2004/2/21 21:55
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EARTH FIRST! - We can mine the other planets later...'
'69 Blue 4 door Project Daisy (http://www.datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=668)
(https://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=5640)
(http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php...
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