Hi everyone just wondering what the legal ride height is and where they measure it from or is it any part of the car that is the lowest.

not certain of the exact figure i think it's 100mm . that means a 100mm block should not touch anything under the car if you were to drive over it , also keep in mind if you are using lowering blocks on the rear ,if you were to get a flat tyre you have to be able to get a jack under the diff or the spring hanger plate must not touch the ground . this is a good start .

100mm at any part of the car, no questions asked.

Worse thing is every millimetre under a 100 makes your smile a millimetre bigger ;)

Under 100 if not set up right is dangerous on the roads. I got bump steer and also bottoming out but at 120mm it get the jack under ok and it actually handles better, same Tyres wheels everything. Still looks low, just not omfg low

That's a very good point, if you lower to the point the lower control arm angle is at or past parallel (parallel can work in race cars with slicks and very tight suspension with less than 1 inch of travel for anything besides big bumps) and the car will definitely handle worse, and less predictably (it's bad enough if it handled worse but was still predictable, but with 'reverse' angled lower control arms, tyres can breakaway from the road surface quite suddenly (esp when you factor body roll into it)

The problem is that you will get to this problematic control arm angle LONG before the car is lowered enough for most peoples' tastes (seriously). You can get spacers that go between the balljoint and the strut, and they are cheap (if anyone needs some I'll make em if you can't get them) enough (under $100 iirc and I could probably do them for half that)...

They are also known as bump steer spacers by some, but I'd rank their alteration of the control arm angle (and the resultant change in how it dynamically creates or maintains downforce on the outside wheel when cornering as the really important issue.

jmac your on the right track with the lca angle and the "bumpsteer spacers" yes the spacers have a effect on the bumpsteer / rideheight issue but also remember the massive roll center change that happens with ride height changes ,the spacers are to get the lca angle back to somewhere near normal to get the rollcenter back to normal . this could explain the sudden lack of front grip you described.

These could be good jmac, camber and RCA, not sure if they woul have too much load under high cornering though. I like the raised locating tabs, as long as machined to fit strut, should stop any shearing forces on bolts. Same would need to be done underneath for steering arm to slot into the spacer. 25 to 30 mm seems the go.

Looking at them, they space the strut out further for more neg camber, but I'd want to look at the struts they fit (which are a little different to 1200 struts) to see how they attach before I passed judgement on whether I like them.

If I was running 1200 struts, I'd use spacers to get the control arm angles right, but I'd use the upper strut mount (as I've mentioned in the past) i.e. the strut top or camber plate as some call them, to dial in the neg camber. If I wanted more than that could provide, personally I'd be achieving it by modifying and lengthening the control arm itself (and would only take it as far as tie rod thread lengths and safe engagement allowed, probably not more than 1-2cm over std) because as you lengthen a control arm you need to unscrew/adjust tie rod by almost exactly the same amount to get the toe-in right again (and to avoid bump steer.

I should probably add a little bit more to that. My concern with the spacers you've linked to is I think they space the strut out wider vs the steering knuckles. If they don't then ignore this, but if they do, then it will increase the scrub radius, a lot. And in a nutshell that affects how prone the car is to tramlining (or in laymans terms how much it tries to rip the steering wheel out of your hand if you go over tram tracks or other cracks/undulations in the road (separate from bump steer issues too). It's almost the same effect as trying to increase track just by using big thick spacers between the discs and the front wheels. It can and will lead to problems. I'm pretty sure a google search on 'scrub radius' would turn up some decent info. It might not be immediately clear how this will do it (and it's not quite the same as wheel spacers but most of the bad things are the same about both options)